My SWB TT Z32...

[jap.slapper]

The fuel layout is slightly different to how I planned originally as some of the components weren't needed.

Baffled alloy fuel cell with sunken well AN-10 ports. The 'Out' and 'Return' ports are side by side with a braided AN-10 hose feeding an Aeromotive 100 micron pre-pump filter.

The sunken well apparently alleviates the need for an additional fuel swirl pot as the fuel naturally flows to the lowest point of the fuel cell (the well) and benefits from an additional flow of fuel back to the well from the return lines.

We'll see if the theory holds up in practice, though I suspect as long as the cell maintains at least 1/3 capacity it shouldn't be a problem.

The pre-pump filter is connected directly to the Aeromotive fuel pump with an Aeromotive 40 micron post-pump filter running directly off it. I've seen a few drag cars in the US running filters directly to and from the pump so figured I'd follow suit, if nothing else it saves on fuel hose and cost.

I've opted to run braided AN-6 fuel hose from the post-pump filter directly to the inlet 300 degree fuel rail. Initially I was planning on running via the OEM fuel damper or aftermarket equivalent but after speaking to Fuelab apparently the damper isn't required as they have taken the liberty of incorporating one into their FPR that sits on the Return line after the outlet 300 degree fuel rail.
I still can't get my head around how it eliminates pulse to the fuel rail when the FPR is located post fuel rails but that's why I'm not a motorsport engineer I suppose?

Both fuel rails use 45 degree AN-6 connectors.

The Fuelab FPR AN-6 push on fit connectors have been replaced with threaded equivalent enabling 90 degree AN-6 connectors to be used rather than hose finishers.


The ARC oil cooler has AN-10 ports at either end, these were way to big to marry up with the oil tree and sump ports (which are 10mm OD) so I've opted to use reducers on the oil cooler ports enabling AN-8 connectors and braided hose to be used.
The sump port has remained 'push on' fit so is using a finisher however the OEM oil tree port is removable and has been replaced with a threaded AN-8 adapter.


The original plan was to use a single Greddy sandwich plate on the oil tree and run the oil pressure and oil temp sensors off that, however I have decided to fit a Canton sandwich plate with 1/2" NPT port so that the Accusump (which is also 1/2" NPT) can be plumbed straight in using 1/2" NPT to AN-10 adapters. The benefit here is that I can just re-use the AN-10 hoses and connectors that came with the ARC oil cooler hence saving a bit more $ that can be spent elsewhere.

Question: Can the Greddy sandwich plate be used 'as well as' the Canton plate (ie. two sandwich plates together)?

I hope so otherwise I'll have to find another way of incorporating the oil pressure/temp sensors into the system

The Power Steering cooler has been a bit of a mare to be fair. I can't recall removing an oil cooler from the zed, which makes me think that the JDM short wheel base zeds didn't come with them (which seems strange?) however I did pick up a secondhand Evo PAS cooler.

The problem that I encountered was that the zed PAS reservoir and steering rack have 10mm ports whereas the Evo PAS cooler has 12mm ports with a large lip. This meant that the AN-8 hose that I bought to connect the two doesn't actually fit over the Evo port lip. I'm still working on a solution to this little problem but in the wider scheme of things this is niff, naff and trivia.


I ordered a pair of turbo inlet adapters for the pair of GT675-RS turbo's however as seems to be the trend they didn't quite fit. The current adapters on the face of the turbos (from Z1 Motorsports in the US) don't marry up with the inlet adapter mounting holes. After a bit of head scratching I figured that if I cut out one side of the mounting hole I would have enough leeway to mount it on the face of each turbo. This worked and the adapters are perfectly aligned with the inlet of the turbo's.

The only issue I have now is that the inlet adapters are touching the much larger than stock AMS manifolds. It's about as perfect a fit as you can get however this means that I am contemplating running a mesh over the front of the inlet instead of the original plan to run a length of high temp hose with filters attached at the end. Not ideal as FOD is always going to be a concern however short of changing the mani's I'm a bit stuffed, I'm guessing that mani's get pretty hot at max chat and I'm not sure that rubber hose touching it will last too long?


I'm just about to place an order for the new paint, I think it's the colour scheme that I want to go with but we'll have to wait and see.


Other than that ^^^^ I've opted to stick with the Koyo radiator as opposed to the slightly larger Greddy radiator for no other reason than it requires no fabrication.

Today I have started to heat wrap the loom (I've heard that melted looms can kill engines!!)
I'll get some pics up as and when I can get them to upload and then (fingers crossed) the next update will see the engine and box going in.

A bit long winded I know but hopefully progress will be good from now on as the snow and storms have buggered off

[jap.slapper]

Just minor mods required





The drivers side inlet is touching the mani'

[jap.slapper]

New paint colour just ordered, NATO drab olive green. Should be here in a few days. It might look shit or it might look shit hot....who knows

[Gonzo12c]

I went for the NATO desert tan on my other track car went on easy with a roller for that textured look

[jap.slapper]

I went for the NATO desert tan on my other track car went on easy with a roller for that textured look

That's exactly how Mitch (who used to own DriftGarage) did it. A roller and a tray of NATO green out of the tin.

I've opted for several NSN'd 400ml spray cans.

It's a bit of a bastard as I have to pay for shit like that now, gone are the days of popping down the QM's with a packet of chocolate hob nobs.

[pablo]

Great update.
Oil pressure 7 temp sensors. We have a similar issue with ours we use the original oil pressure switch location which on ours seems to work fine. As for the oil temp we have used a plug/bung that comes off the sump. We have considered fitting another oil temp switch fitted before the oil cooler as that would give a more accurate reading of oil temps in the engine. Still yet to do this though.

PWR steering coolers.
On Herbie, the 2.8 v6 turbo we never had a PWR steering cooler and we never had a problem and never needed one.
With Damian the 2.0 turbo cosworth we were aware that cosworth owners fitted PWR coolers but we could not understand why so we didn't bother. Until our first trackday when it boiled the PWR steering fluid and sprayed it out the reservoir. After that we fitted one. Why the cosworth needs one and the XR didn't we still don't understand.

[jap.slapper]

This is the new colour scheme

[Stuart]

Yeah Alan, sort your bloody car out

Nice update Pez. Slow progress is better than no progress. Or regression in my case.

If the car is in bits, you can clean & protect as you go

[jap.slapper]

Question for you guys that are in the know. When carbon fibre parts have been sanded back to the carbon weave and all clear lacquer removed, does the part need to be primer'd before being painted or could the bare carbon be painted onto directly?

[jap.slapper]

It had been blowing a gale and pissing down with sleet and snow for most of the day. I put the dog out at around 2am and popped into the workshop to get out of the wind only to find a pool of water in the far corner. I was a bit surprised as the workshop roof has just been re-sealed and re-felted










I went outside and climbed on the roof and found that the felt covering the entire far corner of the workshop had been lifted clean off by the wind and had folded back on itself, allowing the sleet and rain to soak through. To top it off the roof had frozen solid and the flap of felt was stuck fast to the rest of the roof.

It must have looked comical with me at two in the morning outside in my slippers and not much else, getting pelted by the wind and rain, slipping and sliding on the workshop roof trying to pry the frozen felt apart with an extra long metal ruler.

As far as car parts getting wet is concerned, luckily it was only the clutch that took a swim. The shelves nearby are where I store all of the electronic bits and bobs (AEM ECU, EBC, switch lights etc.) and they were bone dry.


That tells me I need to do a bit more work on making the workshop roof storm proof, it could have been a lot worse as our wood store roof has already blown down along with a few trees and one of the Guinea pig hutches (the guinea pig was fine by the way). Unfortunately the zed was also left unscathed so I have no more excuses not to finish it!!


All good fun eh!