Nah, too coarse for this kind of work. The sand/grit paper is good enough to take it back to the factory gel coat. 
1996 Mitsubishi Pajero
Really, 1000, 1500, 2000 with a bit of soapy water!Daniel wrote:Good old eBay.
What every looks like you getting good results.
" Uh Betty you should of seen this car in Ely today!! it had stickers and stripes
all over it, and when it started up, the noise!!!, I could feel my teeth rattling!!!"
Tarty updates time! old update first. Second will bring us up to yesterday.
I have a long list of things to do to the truck for winter preparation, so I’ve narrowed it down into a segment of what I’ll be doing this month or so:
Having the entire truck valeted inside and out by our very own Stuart. Also on a secondary date with him/APT, the whole underside will be waxoiled before the snow hits. I thought it best to get this done sooner rather than later as the chassis is in such good nick.
I’ve bought a new round head type filter to stop the intake of heavy rain and head on snow flurries from the conventional ram type snorkel head. So I’ve trial fitted this and it’s brilliant, no loss in power despite its tiny intake venturi inside.
Have neatly installed and wired up twin auxiliary 12v sockets behind the grille, which has so far come in dead handy for lamps etc.
Finally got round to refurbishing and fitting SWB roof bars (
old update first. Second will bring us up to yesterday.I have a long list of things to do to the truck for winter preparation, so I’ve narrowed it down into a segment of what I’ll be doing this month or so:
Having the entire truck valeted inside and out by our very own Stuart. Also on a secondary date with him/APT, the whole underside will be waxoiled before the snow hits. I thought it best to get this done sooner rather than later as the chassis is in such good nick.
I’ve bought a new round head type filter to stop the intake of heavy rain and head on snow flurries from the conventional ram type snorkel head. So I’ve trial fitted this and it’s brilliant, no loss in power despite its tiny intake venturi inside.
Have neatly installed and wired up twin auxiliary 12v sockets behind the grille, which has so far come in dead handy for lamps etc.
Finally got round to refurbishing and fitting SWB roof bars (
Following on from part 1
I forgot to take photos of the new lamps disassembly but we can start from here.
The reason behind the disassembly is that the guy said they were 200mm diameter, but were actually 213... So that really annoyed me, especially that the glass too was 1/4" oversize and can't use the OE ones! Anyway - here we go.
Began by stripping down the new chrome metal lamps and then removing the lamp itself. As you can see, it plonks in nice and snug.
Next step was to secure this in with industrial strength VHT hot glue. It hardened up nicely, it's now like a single moulded unit.
Next was to salvage the original Mitsubishi lamp boots and wiring, these are connected up to the H3 bulbs and then sealed up to avoid condensation.
At this stage I decided to make a Tri configuration of temporary fasteners to secure the front and the lamp body together. The sheet screws will be replaced with a slight oversize tinman rivets and will be panted black.
The gap at the bottom here is where the front cover was originally moulded at the factory to clear the OE bracket. This will need filling in and sealing up, I'm now waiting for a sheet of black 1.5mm styrene to cut to shape and affix inside the cover.
One unit completed.
Both now done and ready for test fitting.
Lamps now bolted up. I also installed the OE wiring loom for the fog lamps to the loose plug in front of the radiator and fed both sides down and through the bumper gaps.
All working! Not keen on the orange look (not with clear lenses anyway) So I've ordered some daylight H3 130w Ring bulbs!
And we're all up to date.
I forgot to take photos of the new lamps disassembly but we can start from here.
The reason behind the disassembly is that the guy said they were 200mm diameter, but were actually 213... So that really annoyed me, especially that the glass too was 1/4" oversize and can't use the OE ones! Anyway - here we go.Began by stripping down the new chrome metal lamps and then removing the lamp itself. As you can see, it plonks in nice and snug.
Next step was to secure this in with industrial strength VHT hot glue. It hardened up nicely, it's now like a single moulded unit.
Next was to salvage the original Mitsubishi lamp boots and wiring, these are connected up to the H3 bulbs and then sealed up to avoid condensation.
At this stage I decided to make a Tri configuration of temporary fasteners to secure the front and the lamp body together. The sheet screws will be replaced with a slight oversize tinman rivets and will be panted black.
The gap at the bottom here is where the front cover was originally moulded at the factory to clear the OE bracket. This will need filling in and sealing up, I'm now waiting for a sheet of black 1.5mm styrene to cut to shape and affix inside the cover.
One unit completed.
Both now done and ready for test fitting.
Lamps now bolted up. I also installed the OE wiring loom for the fog lamps to the loose plug in front of the radiator and fed both sides down and through the bumper gaps.
All working! Not keen on the orange look (not with clear lenses anyway) So I've ordered some daylight H3 130w Ring bulbs!
And we're all up to date.
Another small update. Had the whole body and interior valeted but Stu and what a bloody superb job he did! 
The paint work is now like glass instead of sandpaper and the interior is now minty and fresh. Result.
Also had the original Mitsubishi badge off as it's badly crudded up and the random Ralliart one has successfully made its way into the bin.
Here are some pics;
The amount of tar that came off of this was unbelievable, it's quite shocking to see even under the arches that there wasn't a single spot of tar/dirt/grime staining the plastic. Total transformation.
We'll be arranging another date (APT depending) in hopefully late November to have the whole waxoil treatment done throughout the chassis and arches. Recently I've been wanting to fit the later MK2.5 (flared arch) model grab handle for the drivers side to make getting in a tad easier rather than forcing the steering wheel all the time. So I managed to buy both trim and handle from eBay via a breakers. But this wasn't going to be straight forward as there's no provision on my A pillar to screw in a handle, two fabricated spreader plates were required.
Continue to page 26>>>
The paint work is now like glass instead of sandpaper and the interior is now minty and fresh. Result. Also had the original Mitsubishi badge off as it's badly crudded up and the random Ralliart one has successfully made its way into the bin.
Here are some pics;
The amount of tar that came off of this was unbelievable, it's quite shocking to see even under the arches that there wasn't a single spot of tar/dirt/grime staining the plastic. Total transformation.
We'll be arranging another date (APT depending) in hopefully late November to have the whole waxoil treatment done throughout the chassis and arches. Recently I've been wanting to fit the later MK2.5 (flared arch) model grab handle for the drivers side to make getting in a tad easier rather than forcing the steering wheel all the time. So I managed to buy both trim and handle from eBay via a breakers. But this wasn't going to be straight forward as there's no provision on my A pillar to screw in a handle, two fabricated spreader plates were required.
Continue to page 26>>>