Waxoyling and body polishing.

Daniel · Post by **Daniel** » Mon Sep 03, 2012 1:29 pm

Afternoon all.

Before the winter comes here, I want to get the underside of the Pajero Waxoyled and the body work given a good t-cut and polish but on a company level.

Anyone recommend a place or places nearby that can fulfil my needs?

Cheers.

Post by **Stuart** » Mon Sep 03, 2012 4:04 pm

Just how good do you need it Dan, and why would a company do a better job than you and I?

I probably have everything that you need short of a four post lift.

Daniel · Post by **Daniel** » Mon Sep 03, 2012 5:13 pm

Bodywork wise I'd like it to be back to near as factory condition to be honest mate. As you've seen, the bodywork i(in terms of straightness is in pretty good nick. But the only problem is that dirt and traffic film just etches its way into the paint. That's why I was thinking of a company with the appropriate equipment to do it. Plus in time I'll also be having the silver plastics repainted to match the body work, so having the bodywork as 'bright' as possible will be good to match in.

Waxoyl wise, I wouldn't trust myself under the truck at ground level with a tin+brush or sprayer. Plus these places can give them a thorough wash prior to treatment.

Post by **Stuart** » Mon Sep 03, 2012 5:31 pm

Paint restorations/treatments could be handled by someone like H-tech in Norwich (Ask for Chris) and mention the forum. Waxoyl-ing can be done by Leigh Wicks at Wayland garage in Watton. Once again mention the forum to Leigh

Daniel · Post by **Daniel** » Mon Sep 03, 2012 5:32 pm

Excellente, thanks Stuart.

Tk · Post by Tk » Mon Sep 03, 2012 6:34 pm

just give it a bloody good t-cut

works wonders but it is easier to pay someone to do it

russ979 · Post by **russ979** » Mon Sep 03, 2012 7:06 pm

Why not buy yourself these bits Dan?
Something cheap and cheerful like this -
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/180mm-Variabl ... 5d33b08930
Some of this -
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Farecla-G3-Ad ... 1e70f0732f
And one of these -
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FARECLA-G-MOP ... 1c1b8283db
Then you could do the job yourself and have the equipment to do future cars or headlights.

Daniel · Post by **Daniel** » Mon Sep 03, 2012 7:47 pm

Tk wrote:just give it a bloody good t-cut works wonders but it is easier to pay someone to do it

I did that the first time around when I bought it

the thing was in a terrible state. Just worried that too much t-cut will damage the paint work and leave patches? (can you tell I'm not that clued up on bodywork)

russ979 wrote:Why not buy yourself these bits Dan?
Something cheap and cheerful like this -
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/180mm-Variabl ... 5d33b08930
Some of this -
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Farecla-G3-Ad ... 1e70f0732f
And one of these -
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FARECLA-G-MOP ... 1c1b8283db
Then you could do the job yourself and have the equipment to do future cars or headlights.

Coming from you Russ, I have no doubt with what you have linked me will be the answer to sorting the bodywork out. However, stupid question. But how long should I take to do each panel properly? Also, the bottle of liquid, is it a final polish after the abrasive coat? If it is, will normal T-Cut be okay or is there something better?

Thanks for the replies all.

russ979 · Post by **russ979** » Mon Sep 03, 2012 8:25 pm

Its not a stupid question mate.
It is a messy job as you need to keep the mop head wet and thus white spots of G3 will be flung everywhere. A variable speed polisher is needed (on slowest speed) as a normal grinder is far too fast and the halfords type buffers are just that (ok for buffing but not man enough for cutting back paint). I tend to go across a car like i would do with say T-cut. You spend more time going over areas that you can see scratches. I tend to put the G3 on a rag and wipe it over a panel. I then spin the mop head in a bucket of water and go over the panel. If it starts to dry out i have a squirty bottle of water that i spray on the panel to keep it wet. If you go over and over the same spot you can and will burn through the paint (But it is harder to do than you think!). I recently done a clio that had been key`d down the entire side, I got the scratch out of the wing and door completely but i did go through the paint on the quarter panel. It was a nasty heavy key scratch and i was surprised that i got away with only having to paint the quarter, So hitting it with the mop first actualy saved me quite a bit of painting.
You can end up with swirl marks or mop lines as i call them!? But on a white car this is quite hard to see anyway! (Black cars are the worst for this) I do use a hand polish afterwards just to make the paint extra silky!:D;)
I hope thats of some help?

Daniel · Post by **Daniel** » Mon Sep 03, 2012 9:12 pm

This is extremely helpful Russ!

just the answer I was looking for.

I'll give this a stab and see how I get on. If all else fails, off to H-Tech it goes.