'91 r32 gtr
Your clutch looks like a spec super twin - I've searched the net and when fitting one to a 350Z - this is what is said.
edit: i just tried pushing in the clutch while revving to 6500+ and the car didnt move at all but that might not indicate if it stick when shifting under load.
I do agree, it does take a lot more throw for it to disengage. we iniitialy thought it was a tight pilot bushing grabbing the input shaft, but all I had to do was adjust that threaded rod behind the clutch pedal.
Since the clutch wasnt that used here on the Z's, i had to do all my pre-purchase research by reading the Vette and Supra forums which was pretty much positive (except some Supras bc they were changing from to a hydraulic setup)
The throwout bearing is definitely much bigger/thicker though than the stock one. i wish I woulda taken a pic of the difference. Its obvious to the naked eye that the Spec throwout is almost 1/4" thicker.
Granted the clutch is still new, i havent tried to shift at redline so I cannot verify or deny the hi rpm shift problems. Mine is a different model than Hal posted, I only have the SS model.
Thom: I saw the southbend one, but was hesitant because of all the single disc, must relearn how to drive, car almost rolled into the car behind on a hill startup, etc stories. I was actually quite easy with the jackstands.
Dum spiro, spero
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Yeah thats my one concern as I know whilst this spec clutch is giving me trouble (doesnt help that the RB26 version is very rare, they normally do muscle cars etc) its not done many miles at all which is something at least....
This is the 2nd hand OS Giken;
http://www.driftworks.com/forum/parts-s ... -used.html
And this is how the release bearing is sitting on the fingers;

Have sent the guys at SPEC another email asking them if they know the nissan part number for the release bearing (previously spoken to them and they said to use the OEM release bearing - hoping they can be more specific)
Although just remembered in the past they mentioned that they have a release bearing too.... maybe see how my emails with them go and enquire about that if come up short
This is the 2nd hand OS Giken;
http://www.driftworks.com/forum/parts-s ... -used.html
And this is how the release bearing is sitting on the fingers;

Have sent the guys at SPEC another email asking them if they know the nissan part number for the release bearing (previously spoken to them and they said to use the OEM release bearing - hoping they can be more specific)
Although just remembered in the past they mentioned that they have a release bearing too.... maybe see how my emails with them go and enquire about that if come up short

Also found this listed with regards a Spec Clutch
Listed on - http://www.lmperformance.com/139772/91.html
I guess they didn't supply it when you bought it - maybe contact Spec and ask them.Notes:Billet flywheel, billet hydraulic release bearing/slave assembly, stainless line and hardware included
Listed on - http://www.lmperformance.com/139772/91.html
Dum spiro, spero
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Ok, the broken OS Giken that came out of my GTR looked in better condition than that one on Driftworks!
Honestly phone APT tomorrow and get them to source you the correct bearing - Or one of the suppliers of Spec Clutches.
The picture means nothing to me dude
Honestly phone APT tomorrow and get them to source you the correct bearing - Or one of the suppliers of Spec Clutches.
The picture means nothing to me dude

Dum spiro, spero
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Had a feeling you might say that... all the second hand clutches i've seen whilst having a quick look dont look so great.
Had an email back from Spec and they said the below about my email/pics;
And as it worked with a bearing exactly the same as this one i'm inclined to believe him, but obviously dont want to have to take everything apart again
Ordered a new pivot ball spring just incase its worn too -
Had an email back from Spec and they said the below about my email/pics;
That bearing is fine. Do you have the pressure plate bolted down yet ?
The fingers move towards the middle. There are two styles of bearings,
one where just the bearing face turns and one that the complete bearing
body spins..either works with that clutch.
And as it worked with a bearing exactly the same as this one i'm inclined to believe him, but obviously dont want to have to take everything apart again

Ordered a new pivot ball spring just incase its worn too -
True.... I think the one that is mentioned above is for the pull application (late R32 + R33) which would need a push mechanism put in...
To be honest much like your comment my attention is back on the slave cylinder currently... Just remembered that when removing the slave I could push the push rod in any direction when I removed it (so had massive play on it, although did return to straight on iirc) - not a clue if thats normal but would've thought as a push rod it would've been a in/out movement only? Dont know if you've had any experience of that?
Just found another quote as well - talking about the slave cylinder push rod which suggests my problems outside of the box;
To be honest much like your comment my attention is back on the slave cylinder currently... Just remembered that when removing the slave I could push the push rod in any direction when I removed it (so had massive play on it, although did return to straight on iirc) - not a clue if thats normal but would've thought as a push rod it would've been a in/out movement only? Dont know if you've had any experience of that?
Just found another quote as well - talking about the slave cylinder push rod which suggests my problems outside of the box;
If you can push it all the way back inside then you have another problem (assuming it's bled correctly - if not bled correctly, it will feel spongy by hand)