Audi A4 2.0 FSI
i work on them....
looks like it maybe due a coil pack recall
the rocker breather is split and taped up common, cheap to fix
check the fpr vac pipe isnt all crumbly
dont worry about the clutch they can last for twice that milage depending how its driven
cambelts been done = Good
bottom arms done = Good
Check the engine gets up to temperature correctly and stays at 90, thermostat and water pumps are common to fail
its got the metal top coolant pipe = good
check the battery isnt swimming in water...a blocked plenum water drain will cause water to go into the car through the pollen filter and screw the convience control unit... expensive
check the steering doesnt whine or make a horrible noise form the belt area when you turn it
if the econ light wont turn off the aircon is empty or the high pressure sensor is faulty
check the rear arb collars arent cracked otherwise the bar will walk side to side
check the flexi hoses for cracking must be starting by now at that age n milage
check rear coil springs arent snapped are the bottom
check both number plate bulb lenses are there normally crack and fall out
servicing is simple...if its on longlife 20k or 2yrs, 20k oil n pollen, 40k oil pollen sparks, 60k oil pollen air. 80k cambelt oil pollen sparks
Audi dont specify a manual gear oil change at all.
If you reset the dash using the buttons it'll go into fixed servicing 10k 1 year..
Always use vw spec oil.
Go to the nearest TPS for your parts and oil
Honest opinion tho,
Buy a 1.9tdi A4,it will return 55mpg all day long. the 2ltr fsi is a bit pants mpg wise
The tdi engines are barely run in at 100k so dont be scared of some miles aslong as its got a full dealer history as the oil makes all the difference.
A guy at my place has one and he uses towing his caravan abroad and stuff and its done 230k and still going strong
looks like it maybe due a coil pack recall
the rocker breather is split and taped up common, cheap to fix
check the fpr vac pipe isnt all crumbly
dont worry about the clutch they can last for twice that milage depending how its driven
cambelts been done = Good
bottom arms done = Good
Check the engine gets up to temperature correctly and stays at 90, thermostat and water pumps are common to fail
its got the metal top coolant pipe = good
check the battery isnt swimming in water...a blocked plenum water drain will cause water to go into the car through the pollen filter and screw the convience control unit... expensive
check the steering doesnt whine or make a horrible noise form the belt area when you turn it
if the econ light wont turn off the aircon is empty or the high pressure sensor is faulty
check the rear arb collars arent cracked otherwise the bar will walk side to side
check the flexi hoses for cracking must be starting by now at that age n milage
check rear coil springs arent snapped are the bottom
check both number plate bulb lenses are there normally crack and fall out
servicing is simple...if its on longlife 20k or 2yrs, 20k oil n pollen, 40k oil pollen sparks, 60k oil pollen air. 80k cambelt oil pollen sparks
Audi dont specify a manual gear oil change at all.
If you reset the dash using the buttons it'll go into fixed servicing 10k 1 year..
Always use vw spec oil.
Go to the nearest TPS for your parts and oil
Honest opinion tho,
Buy a 1.9tdi A4,it will return 55mpg all day long. the 2ltr fsi is a bit pants mpg wise
The tdi engines are barely run in at 100k so dont be scared of some miles aslong as its got a full dealer history as the oil makes all the difference.
A guy at my place has one and he uses towing his caravan abroad and stuff and its done 230k and still going strong
Now that's what I'm talking about, cheers for that Adam. What about this...Adam_sx wrote:i work on them....
looks like it maybe due a coil pack recall
the rocker breather is split and taped up common, cheap to fix
check the fpr vac pipe isnt all crumbly
dont worry about the clutch they can last for twice that milage depending how its driven
cambelts been done = Good
bottom arms done = Good
Check the engine gets up to temperature correctly and stays at 90, thermostat and water pumps are common to fail
its got the metal top coolant pipe = good
check the battery isnt swimming in water...a blocked plenum water drain will cause water to go into the car through the pollen filter and screw the convience control unit... expensive
check the steering doesnt whine or make a horrible noise form the belt area when you turn it
if the econ light wont turn off the aircon is empty or the high pressure sensor is faulty
check the rear arb collars arent cracked otherwise the bar will walk side to side
check the flexi hoses for cracking must be starting by now at that age n milage
check rear coil springs arent snapped are the bottom
check both number plate bulb lenses are there normally crack and fall out
servicing is simple...if its on longlife 20k or 2yrs, 20k oil n pollen, 40k oil pollen sparks, 60k oil pollen air. 80k cambelt oil pollen sparks
Audi dont specify a manual gear oil change at all.
If you reset the dash using the buttons it'll go into fixed servicing 10k 1 year..
Always use vw spec oil.
Go to the nearest TPS for your parts and oil
Honest opinion tho,
Buy a 1.9tdi A4,it will return 55mpg all day long. the 2ltr fsi is a bit pants mpg wise
The tdi engines are barely run in at 100k so dont be scared of some miles aslong as its got a full dealer history as the oil makes all the difference.
A guy at my place has one and he uses towing his caravan abroad and stuff and its done 230k and still going strong
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Audi-A4-1-9TD ... 3a719ca5cb
TrueStuart wrote:Diesel's sound like shit
Adam's response is one of the best I've read for this sort of thing; Drifter, your initial budget dictates that you buy a petrol, so buy the best one you can. Looks like a nice car mate.
I have been searching for less than 100k on the clock, but if I take Adam at his word you can get a A4 Tdi in budget with a few extra miles. Plus they get into the 50's for mpg so it does start to make better
Ok a bit late for my reply, But i realy would n`t worry about mileage provided the service history spot on.
I could highly recommend a mazda 6 and a pre 2006 model ie:- a 136bhp 5speed example a pretty bomb proof. I had my 136 sport diesel for 4-5 years. I bought it at just under 3years old with 100k on it then used for towing cars all over the country and i covered another 70k in it and never ever missed a beat. Infact it drove better than the 2007 143 sport model i replaced it with and was more fun than the 2.7 A6 i have now. The audi obviously will feel a lot better built. Its a tough call with petrol over diesel as the number of oil burners compared to petrols means there is way more diesels to choose from and this size of car the road tax is always much cheaper.
My personal feelings are i would much rather buy a 3 year one owner ex-lease car with around 100k on the clock and a bang on service history thats had belt changes etc already done and maybe 2-3 oil changes a year than a 5-6 year old one with 50-60k on it thats going to be due cambelts, clutch`s etc in a short period of time.
Im sure there are others on here that would back me up when i say that rust and general corrosion are not realy a problem with modern cars. Its the electronics that are a total pain in the arse and have little to do with the mileage of the car.
I am getting more and more clio`s with ecu/uch faults with no connection with the miles that the car has done, Its more to do with the fact that the phase 2 clio II`s with this tech have been around for nealy 11 years and are just getting old (not many of us would expect our lap tops to last that long?)
I could highly recommend a mazda 6 and a pre 2006 model ie:- a 136bhp 5speed example a pretty bomb proof. I had my 136 sport diesel for 4-5 years. I bought it at just under 3years old with 100k on it then used for towing cars all over the country and i covered another 70k in it and never ever missed a beat. Infact it drove better than the 2007 143 sport model i replaced it with and was more fun than the 2.7 A6 i have now. The audi obviously will feel a lot better built. Its a tough call with petrol over diesel as the number of oil burners compared to petrols means there is way more diesels to choose from and this size of car the road tax is always much cheaper.
My personal feelings are i would much rather buy a 3 year one owner ex-lease car with around 100k on the clock and a bang on service history thats had belt changes etc already done and maybe 2-3 oil changes a year than a 5-6 year old one with 50-60k on it thats going to be due cambelts, clutch`s etc in a short period of time.
Im sure there are others on here that would back me up when i say that rust and general corrosion are not realy a problem with modern cars. Its the electronics that are a total pain in the arse and have little to do with the mileage of the car.
I am getting more and more clio`s with ecu/uch faults with no connection with the miles that the car has done, Its more to do with the fact that the phase 2 clio II`s with this tech have been around for nealy 11 years and are just getting old (not many of us would expect our lap tops to last that long?)