Toyota MR2

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blackskygtr
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Post by blackskygtr »

stuart wrote:Lovely cat by the way. A British Blue?
Trust you to notice the pussy !!!!
Well the skyline is gone for good But how cool is my little replacement!!!!! 7lbs 12oz of pure joy....

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Daniel
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Post by Daniel »

Update, looks like i have more work on my hands :roll: a coupe of days ago i noticed a faint knocking sound coming from the front nearside of the car, i didnt take any notice because have loose tools and stuff in the front boot. However friday i heard a massive BANG and the steering was pulling to the right :o so i came back to work and had a quick peak and i found the problem :lol:

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the droplink bracket on the strut had snapped away completley on both sides :o obviously because of the front ARB being set on the stiffest setting. So now thats buggered and you cant really weld it up because its rusted to hell. So ive decided on buying and replacing both front struts :) but this time im going to brace these droplink mounts on the strut with a few meaty stainless gussets :D a quick crude cad drawing to visulise;

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IWANT1
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Post by IWANT1 »

Why stainless, even if the plate doesn't rust the welds will?

Remember the strut if filled with oil when welding.
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" Uh Betty you should of seen this car in Ely today!! it had stickers and stripes
all over it, and when it started up, the noise!!!, I could feel my teeth rattling!!!"

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Daniel
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Post by Daniel »

IWANT1 wrote:Why stainless, even if the plate doesn't rust the welds will?

Remember the strut if filled with oil when welding.
i've taken those into account, the plates and welds will be treated and painted over to stop that with plasticote :nod: and yep i'll have to do light stitch welding and let it cool down between welds or just remove the dampers.
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Fast Eddy
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Post by Fast Eddy »

Daniel,

Like Lee, i am questioning why you want to use stainless. You will need more heat to penetrate stainless than mild steel and you run risk of damaging the internals of the shock as well as heating the oil.

I recommend using mild as it is also not a brittle as stainless so will be more forgiving under stress.

Eddy
Authorised trader. Bespoke & direct fit exhaust/induction solutions, silicone hose specialist, Millers oils, Whiteline, EBC + much more. Find me at http://www.fast-eddys.biz

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330hp Pulsar Gti-r, 153hp Metro and 185hp Smart Car!

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Daniel
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Post by Daniel »

yeah thats a fair point eddy didnt think of that - mild steel would be better, i would take my time with the welding to make sure it doesnt get over heated and boil the oil.

thanks for the suggestions guys :thumb:
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Daniel
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Post by Daniel »

update:
well last week the car failed its MOT. One thing i knew about was the suspension, the other two were the exhaust system and a rear caliper.

So Monday morning i should have a new blueflame system arriving, and the garage are supplying a new caliper, then the car will be back in the workshop tuesday to have the parts changed and re-test, fingers crossed all will be well
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Daniel
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Post by Daniel »

Well it's been a month since i updated :blush5: so i better update :D

i recieved the exhaust through the letter box, then assembled it and i was impressed with the finish of the system;

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very nice :) also the rear caliper has been replaced, but i didnt expect them to buy in a genuine toyota one and stung me for over
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Nik
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Post by Nik »

Very swish Daniel. At least that won't got bent next time you drive into the inside of the pit wall ;)
I may be getting older but I REFUSE to grow up :D
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Mr Fletcher
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Post by Mr Fletcher »

Very swish Daniel. At least that won't got bent next time you drive into the inside of the pit wall ;)
i have the incident on video :auto: available to the highest bidder :sifone:

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