Camber on classic STI Scooby

Andy916 · Post by **Andy916** » Sun Oct 26, 2008 10:06 pm

Matt,
I've run 1.5deg camber all round on my last 3 classics, which all did daily driving as well as trackdays and sprints. Didn't seem to wear the tyres out unduly on the road, and the only time I ran over the sidewalls was when using up crap, soft-sidewalled tyres. Your spring rates are a bit soft at the front for track work, I've always used 5/4 or 6/4. Surprised at your 4/4, since Powerstation 'fast road' AST setup is usually 4/3.

Anyone know about Pilot Sport 2's behaviour on track?

I've run 18's only briefly - sold my Oz's as they were too heavy. I used 215/40-17 mostly, and 205/50-16 but only with really stiff sidewall tyres.

Andy

Gerry H · Post by **Gerry H** » Sun Oct 26, 2008 10:10 pm

18" are not good on a classic. 17" are much better.

I'm surprised Mike, that you don't run any castor as it's supposed to give dynamic camber, i.e. increasing camber on turning. Noltec top mounts give camber and castor adjustment.

Lower 4 point strut brace, 22mm adjustable and solid droplinks on front & rear all help.

mike-payne · Post by **mike-payne** » Mon Oct 27, 2008 8:00 am

Gerry H wrote:18" are not good on a classic. 17" are much better.

I'm surprised Mike, that you don't run any castor as it's supposed to give dynamic camber, i.e. increasing camber on turning. Noltec top mounts give camber and castor adjustment.

Lower 4 point strut brace, 22mm adjustable and solid droplinks on front & rear all help.

I was advised by Andy Walsh, not to run caster. his words were.... "caster is used to power/drive through the bends, but this is not the quickest way. just feels good. Often the way that feels worse for the driver, is quicker for the car...".
He said it was commonly used on four wheel drives.... but after some training with him i tend to drive slightly different.
The best piece fo advice he offered and best piece of equipment i bought was a Thermometer. So i adjust pressures and camber in-line with tyre temps.

Andy916 · Post by **Andy916** » Mon Oct 27, 2008 9:47 am

Mike - what thermometer do you use, and can you really adjust camber at the track without also affecting toe? (do you use slot-type topmounts mounted at exactly 90deg to the axis of the car?)

mike-payne · Post by **mike-payne** » Mon Oct 27, 2008 11:08 am

Andy916 wrote:Mike - what thermometer do you use, and can you really adjust camber at the track without also affecting toe? (do you use slot-type topmounts mounted at exactly 90deg to the axis of the car?)

Toe will be effected, but i can't say that i have noticed any detrement as a result, as i gain so much more from the effective useage of the tyre surface.
Clearly i could go further by adjusting toe if needed, but given my skill level, etc. i haven't bothered.
But i can say i do notice a big improvement in handling and turn in abilty.

BentMetal · Post by **BentMetal** » Mon Oct 27, 2008 12:19 pm

I can't go back to 17s because of the the brake kit I've got on the front

The reason I've got 4kg/mm alround is because it is a wagon so I guess a little heavier at the rear the a 2/4 door. Also, when I told Powerstation that I planned to do track days/ring trips they advised me to go a bit stiffer than 3 at the rear - in line with what Duncan is suggesting.

I'm a bit confused??? Duncan is saying soften the front and stiffen the rear. Andy is saying I should run stiffer front springs which seems to be the opposite :?

Andy, did you get 1.5 degrees camber without top mounts? I'm thinking that even if the car rolls, if I run more camber the wheels will sit squarer on the road.

mike-payne · Post by **mike-payne** » Mon Oct 27, 2008 12:24 pm

BentMetal wrote:I can't go back to 17s because of the the brake kit I've got on the front

The reason I've got 4kg/mm alround is because it is a wagon so I guess a little heavier at the rear the a 2/4 door. Also, when I told Powerstation that I planned to do track days/ring trips they advised me to go a bit stiffer than 3 at the rear - in line with what Duncan is suggesting.

I'm a bit confused??? Duncan is saying soften the front and stiffen the rear. Andy is saying I should run stiffer front springs which seems to be the opposite :?

Andy, did you get 1.5 degrees camber without top mounts? I'm thinking that even if the car rolls, if I run more camber the wheels will sit squarer on the road.

I always run harder rear damper than front...

Andy916 · Post by **Andy916** » Mon Oct 27, 2008 1:36 pm

BentMetal wrote: Andy, did you get 1.5 degrees camber without top mounts? I'm thinking that even if the car rolls, if I run more camber the wheels will sit squarer on the road.

I've had struts that came with slotted front topmounts on all 3 cars. On one of those I got 1.5deg without needing to 'use' the topmount. On current car I'm using all of the slot giving max caster as well as 1.5deg camber, and on the rear I couldn't find enough camber even with camber bolts - I had to fit Whiteline adjustable arms. It just depends on the individual car.

If Powerstation did your current setup, what do they recommend to cure the specific problem?

Andy

BentMetal · Post by **BentMetal** » Mon Oct 27, 2008 3:52 pm

I've emailed Powerstation about this and will let you know what they say.

At the moment my plan is to try these things one at a time:

Go a touch harder on the front tyre pressures
Back off the front damping and crank up the rear damping
Set the rear roll bar to the stiffest setting
See if I can get any more front camber

If this fails I'll consider 5kg front springs, camber bolts, adjustable top mounts etc...

Cheers for all the advice/comments guys

DunkRA · Post by **DunkRA** » Mon Oct 27, 2008 3:57 pm

you just missed a GB on scabbynet for camber bolts, IIRC they were about 24 quid