
Turbo Choices for ScoobieWRX
The trouble with figures is repeatability from one engine to another. There's lots of talk about what something should achieve but until it's in place and on a RR, you aren't going to know for sure. My last turbo was the 05/06 20g. Some people reckon it's good for 400 bhp and It felt very strong, as a few will testify but figurewise it produced barely 360. Even advancing the ignition a couple of degrees, on a RR shootout
only produced a max of 375/370.

Handle every stressful situation like a dog. If you can't eat it or hump it, piss on it and walk away!
- ScoobieWRX
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Your FPGreen broke down after a relatively short time, hence the reason why you now have upgraded. Based on that i probably wouldn't get an FP Green although i know others on BP use the FPGreen. I think Frayz does, i may be wrong though.dynamix wrote:there are plenty of alternatives with the same performance and lower price. the fp green and hta green being just two of them. i know paul was very impressed with the spool up on my green and said there was nothing in it between the two.
i would be cautious about believing 500 from a std block.
As for the 500bhp figure on std STi8 internals speak to the owner of Surry Rolling Road, a very nice chap called Charlie. He knows the owner of the particular car i'm speaking of quite well and it's been on Charlie's rollers showing a fraction over 500bhp. Aparently it's been running like that for over a year and it's still alive and kicking and used daily so i'm only going on what i believe to be based on hard evidence.
My experience is that if you want reliability and 'does what it says on the tin' functionality you sometimes have to spend a bit more. I've heard no bad things about the MD321 series turbo's and those that run them speak very highly of them.
Buggers cancelled my op just a couple of days before it was due. Inconsiderate barstewards!! 

Waiting now for another execution date!!:headhack:


Waiting now for another execution date!!:headhack:
- ScoobieWRX
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Genuine observation......Gerry H wrote:The trouble with figures is repeatability from one engine to another. There's lots of talk about what something should achieve but until it's in place and on a RR, you aren't going to know for sure. My last turbo was the 05/06 20g. Some people reckon it's good for 400 bhp and It felt very strong, as a few will testify but figurewise it produced barely 360. Even advancing the ignition a couple of degrees, on a RR shootoutonly produced a max of 375/370.
Is it fair to say that on someone elses car on the day it might have produced more power, or is there 'no way jose' that would have happened because if it doesn't make 400 on yours it won't do on any one elses?

Buggers cancelled my op just a couple of days before it was due. Inconsiderate barstewards!! 

Waiting now for another execution date!!:headhack:


Waiting now for another execution date!!:headhack:
The general consensus on 22b is that the 20G will not make a genuine 400.
Sure there are rollers that will show you figures that are higher but that is always the case. Not knowing SRR myself I have no experience of how accurate their figures are or comparable to the same car on different rollers. Daily use is another thing that is often quoted, one person's daily use is always different to anothers. Whose car is it?
For me, dyno's are a tuning tool and a measurement of before/after. Comparing one car on one dyno to another car on a different dyno is pointless.
Sure there are rollers that will show you figures that are higher but that is always the case. Not knowing SRR myself I have no experience of how accurate their figures are or comparable to the same car on different rollers. Daily use is another thing that is often quoted, one person's daily use is always different to anothers. Whose car is it?
For me, dyno's are a tuning tool and a measurement of before/after. Comparing one car on one dyno to another car on a different dyno is pointless.
I'm saying that, for a start, 400 is very optimistic. Also, on another car, it may have been closer to the magic figure. I don't think you can get identical results from the same set ups, there's too many variables once things are altered.
I know that sounds contraditory but I've seen reported power figures, better than mine, on lesser set ups. To the point where I felt like giving up.
Probably why I don't go near dynos very often
I know that sounds contraditory but I've seen reported power figures, better than mine, on lesser set ups. To the point where I felt like giving up.
Probably why I don't go near dynos very often

Handle every stressful situation like a dog. If you can't eat it or hump it, piss on it and walk away!
To be honest, unless you 'need' to take it above 350, I would keep with the std turbo and gearbox. It is diminishing returns from there on for you.
The expense of changing gearbox, turbo, fmic, clutch and whatever else does not justify just hitting 400. If you are going to spend that money you may as well smash the 500 level.
The expense of changing gearbox, turbo, fmic, clutch and whatever else does not justify just hitting 400. If you are going to spend that money you may as well smash the 500 level.
At a guess the car Charlie means is James Greenwoods of GRD, which i believe runs at circa 500.
The SRR operates a Dyno Dynamics rolling road, and is used by Charlie, Pat, and Simon (JGM)
You would need a few more tricks up your sleeve to get 400 out of a 20g IMO. A few years ago I drove Alan Bells old classic which was "one of the best" 20g mapped cars out there according to Andy Forrest, and that never bettered 370bhp.
The 321 turbos are expensive to some out there, but they do do what they say on the tin, based on communications with various mappers, and owners.
The SRR operates a Dyno Dynamics rolling road, and is used by Charlie, Pat, and Simon (JGM)
You would need a few more tricks up your sleeve to get 400 out of a 20g IMO. A few years ago I drove Alan Bells old classic which was "one of the best" 20g mapped cars out there according to Andy Forrest, and that never bettered 370bhp.
The 321 turbos are expensive to some out there, but they do do what they say on the tin, based on communications with various mappers, and owners.
Toy: 550+ Subaru Impreza Wagon
Commute: E46 M3 SMG
Tow Car/Wifes: Nissan Pathfinder
Commute: E46 M3 SMG
Tow Car/Wifes: Nissan Pathfinder
Never a truer word spoken!dynamix wrote:To be honest, unless you 'need' to take it above 350, I would keep with the std turbo and gearbox. It is diminishing returns from there on for you.
The expense of changing gearbox, turbo, fmic, clutch and whatever else does not justify just hitting 400. If you are going to spend that money you may as well smash the 500 level.
Toy: 550+ Subaru Impreza Wagon
Commute: E46 M3 SMG
Tow Car/Wifes: Nissan Pathfinder
Commute: E46 M3 SMG
Tow Car/Wifes: Nissan Pathfinder
I realise I'm arriving late on this discussion, but is this all on a 2.0 rather than 2.5?
I'm used to standard turbo scoobs (STi4 and now an STi6) plus various bikes including a few years of racing. The other week, my brief first impression of a 400+bhp 20g 2.0 (clue: it's a red wagon near Cambridge) was how narrow the powerband was. It rips straight to the redline and you're changing gear all the time (newage 6 speed). Now, that's fine (in fact it's sublime) on a 2-stroke racebike on a circuit, because you've got a near-instantaneous easy gearchange and you've got your race head on. On the road, with an ordinary car gearbox, I found it a bit much!
Andy
I'm used to standard turbo scoobs (STi4 and now an STi6) plus various bikes including a few years of racing. The other week, my brief first impression of a 400+bhp 20g 2.0 (clue: it's a red wagon near Cambridge) was how narrow the powerband was. It rips straight to the redline and you're changing gear all the time (newage 6 speed). Now, that's fine (in fact it's sublime) on a 2-stroke racebike on a circuit, because you've got a near-instantaneous easy gearchange and you've got your race head on. On the road, with an ordinary car gearbox, I found it a bit much!
Andy