Some Pics of the headers before and after coating and a coated Downpipe. 
Exhaust parts were blasted using aluminium Oxide 100 grade grit applied with a atandard sandblasting gun. Afterwards wiped over with a rag soaked in panel wipe prior to spraying ensuring a nice clean grease free keyed surface for the paint to adhere to.
The liquid coating is a water based and is dilutable using thinners. Best to have a tin of thinners handy as this stuff dries fairly quickly and it will clog up the nozzle of your spraygun. Used a gravity fed detail spraygun with a 0.7mm nozzle.
No more shine and almost looks like it has a coating already.

Hey Presto!! Coated headers



Coated Downpipe

I still have about 1/2 tin of coating left so i'm debating whether i should give them a second coating. The chaps i bought ths coating from say they usually give exhaust parts 2 or 3 coats to make sure the coating is nice and thick and insulates as it's supposed to but 1 coating done properly will easily do the job.
They manufacture the coating therefore are not limited to 1/2 ltr tins and they have big blast cabinets and spray booths to do the job of prepping and coating customers exhaust parts. They charge an arm and a leg to coat them at the factory hence why i have done them myself, however, i bet they aren't paying what i paid for the coating, although to DIY, including the blast material works out about the same price as wrapping.
However, i have all the stuff now and you can reuse the blast material hundreds of times over and won't have to buy any for a good long while. Apparently you can use this coating on brake calipers, rotors, brake pistons and the backs of brake pads to help with overheating issues.
All i need to do now is bolt on the coated headers and uppipe and finally my new engine can be installed :thumb:
I would just like to add a very big thank you to Uncle Gerry

for dropping off a clutch alignment tool (gear spline with gears) recently. Without that Gerry i would still be stuffed!!! Ta for that

:notworthy: