Opel Manta Project update 30/05/2009

[Mr Fletcher]

could you post apic of what has happened before you get the drill out .

cheers

jason

[Gerry H]

could you post apic of what has happened before you get the drill out .

cheers

jason

Beat me to it

What are you calling the cam bolts? From the 'damaging the cam' comment, is it the cam sprocket bolt?

[Suz]

could you post apic of what has happened before you get the drill out .

cheers

jason

Yup will post in a second if can get one that will come out

[Fast Eddy]

Sounds like the cam sprocket bolt then.
Likely to be high tensile. Will be tricky to drill out. Easy out may do it if you can get a decent pilot hole in with a carbide drill.
Good luck

[Suz]

Here's a pic of the wrung bolt, the two bolts you can see are high tensiles Jay found to replace the other two bolts that also felt like they were going to wring

[Suz]

Remind me never to get Jay to read the Haynes Manual for me - you know what they say if you want somthing doing do it yourself. He only gave me the torque setting for the 1.8ohc engine!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Suz

[ScoobieWRX]

You should be able to drill a small hole right in the centre of that broken bolt and then use a reverse thread broken bolt / stud extractor that just sits in the hole you have drilled. Then you turn the extractor anti-clockwise and that bites into the bolt and turns the bolt in the same direction, then voila, it comes out.

The other way is if you have a small arc/Tig welder you might be able to tack a welding rod onto the end of that broken bolt. Then you just put a bend in the rod and turn the rod anti-clockwise. Hopefully the bolt isn't in there too tight and it will turn out.

Hope this helps.

[Suz]

cheers guys as always some really useful advice. Gonna try to get an easy out from work tomorrow and see if that sorts it if not will try what ScoobieWRX suggested. Wish me luck. [-o<

Now lets sort out the real problem - He's in the kitchen I think!!!! :-D :-D

Suz

[Gerry H]

Removing the other two bolts and removing the plate, if I see it correctly (a pic from a little further back and slightly more in focus would help), you may find that the broken part protrudes slightly.

It's unlikely that the bolt has bottomed in the hole and may actually be loose so, with a lot of luck and a fair wind, you 'may' find that by using a small screwdriver or a pointed scriber you can carefully rotate the broken bit enough to get a grip with your fingers or pliers.

If it's reluctant to move, get a good pin punch, a little smaller than the bolt diameter and a hammer. Carefully place the punch straight onto the end of the broken bolt. Taking care not to catch the side of the hole, if it's exposed, give the punch a sharp tap. The idea being that, if there was any cr@p in the thread, this may be preventing the bolt from turning. Giving it a clout on the end, flattens and dislodges the offending material effectively forcing a little clearance in the thread. This may be sufficient to allow you to now rotate the bolt with the screwdriver/scriber.

If it's still stubborn, try a squirt of WD40 or some diesel to help lubricate it.

Still no luck, remove the camshaft and try the above on the bench where you can deal with it more comfortably.

Still no luck. give a good clout with the pin punch to flatten the endof the bolt where you can now use a centre punch to start a drill. Use a small one first, say 2.5mm to get a pilot hole. Then slightly bigger, say 3mm.

If the bolt still shows no sign of moving and really is jammed, an easy out/screw extractor (of the appropriate size could be tried but there is the risk of it breaking with to much force as they're very brittle and can snap like a carrot.

My prefered way would be to continue increasing the size of the drill until you hit the thread root. At this point (you are unlikely to still be dead centre of the bolt, carefull use of the centre punch to break down the wall of the bolt will see it curl inward. At some point it will be sufficiently loose to just unscrew the now, very thin walled bolt.

Before all this, you need to ascertain whether the hole is straight through or blind. If it's straight through, the bolt may just rotate out of the hole under the force of the drilling action. If it's blind, you need to measure the drill depth, against one of the other screws, to give yourself an idea of when to feel for the drill breaking through the end of the bolt, before it attempts to carry on drilling through the back of the sprocket boss.

The other option is to phone your friendly neighbourhood head rework people and ask if they can do it for you. :oops:

Good luck.

[Mr Fletcher]

good advice gerry. i personally think easy outs are sh#te if the bolt is really tight as they work on a taper principle which spreads the loadoutwards in effect tightening the offending bolt . another option would be a left hand drill bit if you could find such an item.don't worry it won't be as bad as you think, sheard off bolts in aluminiumnow that is a right pain
:roll: good luck

cheers


jason