Dyno banter about May 13th @ APT

andycaca · Post by **andycaca** » Mon May 14, 2007 9:31 pm

nevermind that, i want to see the wheel figures

slaphead · Post by **slaphead** » Mon May 14, 2007 10:34 pm

dynamix wrote:mine doesnt spike on the road Gary.

I dont fully understand the technology involved - some more explanation would be superb

Ditto that Duncan,

Mine made 1.1 on the printout - yet the AM boost gauge and the Greddy are both saying 1.2 - with a slight 1.22 "on road" spike - I believe the Greddy is connected to the same pipe Gary used - so a tad :?

~Mark

Bladerider · Post by **Bladerider** » Mon May 14, 2007 11:41 pm

Same here,

Mine is mapped to 1.5bar yet it did a little spike just over 1.3 and then settled back a touch on the Dyno - very very weird and lost me around 70 horse - the figures actually back up pretty much what I would have expected on low boost.

I wasnt going to say anything as I thought it was something wrong with my boost controller on the day, but it seems to fit in with exactly what other people experienced.

Doesnt really matter specifically, but its frustrating when you know your car does one thing yet it produces a different result "on the day" lol

Im sure theres a simple reason for it.

Oh and for what its worth I always believed pwoer figures were taken in 4th mainly to give the car and dyno time to do a full reading and reduce wheelspin a bit. It also was the most accurate as 4th was always the 1:1 direct drive, but I bet this all relates to old school technology and modern dynos like Garys arent affected by these things. I was actually very im pressed with the dyno and how well Gary and the lads got on with it all - even with my stupid car (thanks for the lift up peeps) !!

J.

bimbleuk · Post by **bimbleuk** » Tue May 15, 2007 7:21 am

I was going to post almost exactly what Bladerider said above. My dyno operator of 20 years told me it was done in 4th as that's usually pretty close to 1:1 and on a lot of GBX such as the ubiquitous Ford type 9 the 4th gear is part of the shaft so less loses. Only what I was told though and probably not so relevant with modern designs.

Post by **Ben** » Tue May 15, 2007 8:47 am

OR .. everyone has got better figures on different RR's and now can't handle the TRUTH on a more accurate modern device ... que Stu's homemade readout .....

:-D

slaphead · Post by **slaphead** » Tue May 15, 2007 9:29 am

murano3 wrote:OR .. everyone has got better figures on different RR's and now can't handle the TRUTH on a more accurate modern device ... que Stu's homemade readout .....

:-D

Not exactly Ben - I was within 10 - 15 of where I expected to be on power - Gary and the boys did a cracking job and I certainly didn't mean any of my previous comments as a criticism of them or their dyno - more an observation which is going to affect how much I crank up the boost controller in future

~Mark

duncan · Post by **duncan** » Tue May 15, 2007 9:35 am

same here

I made less than expected but that would follow if I am not getting .2 bar of boost that I normally see on the road.

No homemade readouts used here - ECUTek delta dash road dyno takes into account real-world information like drag co-efficient, weight of vehicle and gear ratio's to work back from accelerative rates to get the power. This is the only real way to find out what your figures are.

Info Here: http://www.ecutek.co.uk/products/dyno/

But.... that was not the point of the day for me. It was a level playing field on a Dyno (and a very well specced and operated one IMO) to judge the cars against each other.

Datsun-Des · Post by **Datsun-Des** » Tue May 15, 2007 10:24 am

My result was disapointing, again boost was lower than the on road, but thats probably down to my ebay boost guage :-D

Christian showed me the printouts and mine was running really rich so that would sap a lot of power (and explain those flames I keep getting)

Time to book in to APT for a remap methinks :thumb:

gary@apt · Post by **gary@apt** » Tue May 15, 2007 10:34 am

ill have to post up some info from dyno manual when i get it and show you guys some stuff

remember the first reason to own a dyno is to able to map cars so when you make a change you can see if it works unlike on the road

but the big thing for dyno days is a level playing field so people all get a crack at it

in oz dyno events are big business and being most powerful is worth the same as winning a race so DYNO DYNAMICS came up with shootout modes

these are preset acceleration rates depending on number of engine cylinders or if its 2wd or 4wd

this then allows us to have a good GUESS at the flywheel figure and torque

remember wheel figures are all that can be measured!!!

you need to have a good engine rpm speed to also to work out a flywheel figure

this is done by most dynos by holding car at a set road speed and inputing rpm to dyno,this is how it was done on the day BUT

duncan · Post by **duncan** » Tue May 15, 2007 10:41 am

:blah: