Very interesting info Scott - thanks for sharing.
From a log on my first run at the Pod:
1. launch at 3767 but dropped down to 2626 after launch - obviously too much traction for those revs but still on boost at .6 BAR and accelerating at a good pace
2. gear changes desperately need working with - each one was taking me nearly 1 second from WOT peaks => x 3 = a lot
A lot to get right for next time.
Just working on the gearchanges may make a huge difference to the Terminal and times.
Good Launches
the changes make a huge differance. I thought those that drove fast on the track would have been better at it. I dont slam it thro the gears. The shifts are precise and fast and done with very little effort or force.
My changes are fast enough to not really show up on the logs which makes my driving repeatable and consistant.
If the revs are droping you out of the boost window you require i would re think.
You need to look at your tire pressures and the way you launch the car. I dont use the handbrake to pre load but i dont drop the clutch either
The important thing is to train yourself and make you driving a style ( your style ) IF that is good and consistant then you will be able to achieve many things by trial and error.
ie tire pressure, shift points, launch rpm, suspension settings etc
The art of drag racing is very close to circuit racing.
Scott
My changes are fast enough to not really show up on the logs which makes my driving repeatable and consistant.
If the revs are droping you out of the boost window you require i would re think.
You need to look at your tire pressures and the way you launch the car. I dont use the handbrake to pre load but i dont drop the clutch either
The important thing is to train yourself and make you driving a style ( your style ) IF that is good and consistant then you will be able to achieve many things by trial and error.
ie tire pressure, shift points, launch rpm, suspension settings etc
The art of drag racing is very close to circuit racing.
Scott
"You think you have a limit, As soon you touch this limit, something happens to you; suddenly you can go a little bit further. With your mind power, your determination, your instinct and your experience as well, you can fly very high."
Scott - been looking at my logs again and it seems that the logging intervals may be distorting the gear change times upwards but not by much - maybe 1/4 sec or so.
This was my first ever drag 1/4 btw
and really wanted to just get a time onthe board rather than crunch a gear through rushing it... track use is different as they are corners and times other than WOT 
This was my first ever drag 1/4 btw


But with a track car you still need
arrange the gear shifts to suit peak power
Read the tires
Set up the handling of the car
decide what part of track to use
decide what line to drive
Set your seating postion
Set the weight of the car
With the exception of a few heal and toe down shifts its very similar in approach
:roll:
arrange the gear shifts to suit peak power
Read the tires
Set up the handling of the car
decide what part of track to use
decide what line to drive
Set your seating postion
Set the weight of the car
With the exception of a few heal and toe down shifts its very similar in approach
:roll:
"You think you have a limit, As soon you touch this limit, something happens to you; suddenly you can go a little bit further. With your mind power, your determination, your instinct and your experience as well, you can fly very high."
But quickest launch is not needed hence the question/request for advicesdminus wrote:But with a track car you still need
arrange the gear shifts to suit peak power
Read the tires
Set up the handling of the car
decide what part of track to use
decide what line to drive
Set your seating postion
Set the weight of the car
With the exception of a few heal and toe down shifts its very similar in approach
:roll:

- Bladerider
- Posts: 1597
- Joined: Sat Aug 26, 2006 2:51 am
- Location: nowhere !!!
- Contact:
Totally depends on more variables than you can really take into account on a "one size fits all" type reply.
If your car is turbo'd then you'll need enough revs and wheelspin to stop the engine instantly bogging and being off boost. If you have more traction than power (most scoobs for example
) then you simply want to floor it and sidestep the clutch. If you have a big V8 with a slush box then its simply a case of managing wheelspin down to almost zero whilst riding the wall of torque.
Generally speaking you will be best placed "loading" the transmission to avoid breakages - simply hold the car in the handbrake whilst allwoing the merest amount of slip in the systemso all "slack" is taken up, then when you fully release the clutch the only place for shock to go is the tyres rather than driveshafts, diffs and gearboxes.
There are obvious things that helps get better times - lowering tyre pressures to improve grip, working out your gearing and perhaps staying long in one change to avoid an extra shift just before the line, short shifting into second as 1st is usually so short and useless in a powerful car, nice big burnouts (with a grid dancer or similar if a gtr) to warm the tyres up and so on.
For example - at 5000rpm the Bomber would bog down, at 6000rpm it would just put 4x 80yard long rubber marks down, but at about 5700rpm it gripped hard enough to roll the little grains of gravel over on a newly tarmac'd airstrip we ran at in Ireland once !! Allwith relatively skinny 245 tyres and normal sort of pressures.
J.
If your car is turbo'd then you'll need enough revs and wheelspin to stop the engine instantly bogging and being off boost. If you have more traction than power (most scoobs for example


Generally speaking you will be best placed "loading" the transmission to avoid breakages - simply hold the car in the handbrake whilst allwoing the merest amount of slip in the systemso all "slack" is taken up, then when you fully release the clutch the only place for shock to go is the tyres rather than driveshafts, diffs and gearboxes.
There are obvious things that helps get better times - lowering tyre pressures to improve grip, working out your gearing and perhaps staying long in one change to avoid an extra shift just before the line, short shifting into second as 1st is usually so short and useless in a powerful car, nice big burnouts (with a grid dancer or similar if a gtr) to warm the tyres up and so on.
For example - at 5000rpm the Bomber would bog down, at 6000rpm it would just put 4x 80yard long rubber marks down, but at about 5700rpm it gripped hard enough to roll the little grains of gravel over on a newly tarmac'd airstrip we ran at in Ireland once !! Allwith relatively skinny 245 tyres and normal sort of pressures.
J.
- Miniwilliams
- Posts: 1326
- Joined: Fri Jul 28, 2006 9:45 am
- Location: East England
- Contact:
Well i've been going to the pod on and off a few times over the years with the mini.
And i just can't master mine.
I think the problem is with a few small details....
The 10"x6" tyres and High first grear ratio (around 50 mph @ 6,700 rpm)
the above are the main ones i think, but a
Laggy turbo
NO lsd
and heavy car (in mini terms)
all add up i think to lol.
But we all have far from ideal cars in some ways or another, just have to make the best of it.
It's a shame as i have enough power that makes me an easy 12 sec 1/4 mile car, but i'm no where near it so there you go. :oops:
And i just can't master mine.
I think the problem is with a few small details....
The 10"x6" tyres and High first grear ratio (around 50 mph @ 6,700 rpm)
the above are the main ones i think, but a
Laggy turbo
NO lsd
and heavy car (in mini terms)
all add up i think to lol.
But we all have far from ideal cars in some ways or another, just have to make the best of it.
It's a shame as i have enough power that makes me an easy 12 sec 1/4 mile car, but i'm no where near it so there you go. :oops:
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1/4mile best 13.2 sec & best speed 116 mph
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1/4mile best 13.2 sec & best speed 116 mph