Technique Post : Trail-Braking

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Maxx
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Technique Post : Trail-Braking

Post by Maxx »

This is an edited version of a post from another forum. The question asked was :
When cornering would you say that braking in a straight line before turning in is quicker than braking into the apex?
This was my answer :
To answer the question you have to understand that whatever you do with the brake & gas they do more than just make you stop & make you go. At rest or at constand speed with a balanced throttle (neither accel or decell) the weight of the car (for example) 50/50. With weight goes grip, so grip is 50/50 [F/R]. When you come off the gas weight goes forward, depending on how much revs you have etc. this could be quite considerable (60/40?). If you apply gas weight goes rearward, this could be (40/60?).

If you apply the brakes this moves even nore weight forward (70/30?) and if you really press them it could be as much as (90/10?).

So, when you turn in on a balanced throttle (i.e. you get all your braking done first before turning) you are turning in with say 50/50 grip balance. You don't need as much grip on the back of the car as the front so it is often better to have more weight (grip) on the front than the rear, so you turn in with some degree of braking still happening (trail-braking). Maybe this is 70/30

Once you are in the corner, the relatively low amount of rear grip vs. front grip would tend to cause the back to lose traction (oversteer) so, to counteract that you'd need to move some grip back to the rear. To do that you'd EASE off the brakes and gradually apply power eventually to get back to a balance throttle by mid-corner (you rarely need to brake all the way to the apex, but some corners benefit from this).

Of course, we all know that exit speed is THE most important aspect of MOST corners so, at the apex we would want to start applying power. Now, the grip we have has to be shared between the cornering grip we still require (mid-corner) and the power we wish to apply. If we add power it takes grip away from cornering, so we need to UNWIND (less grip required for steering, more available for power). As it also moves grip more rearward we need to ensure we account for this also.

As I said initially, it does vary from corner to corner and car to car but that's the science behind it. Most corners where braking is required benefit from some slight degree of trail-braking but often this is just enough to give that initial "bite" but it takes skill to move beetween brake and gas smoothly to gain the benefit from this.

A common trait of trackday drivers, in their quest for quicker laptimes is to leave the braking as late as possible and brake as hard as possible. Often this ends up with them coming off the brakes just at (or just before) the point of turn-in. What happens is there is huge "energy" (weight) over the front tyres which "whiplashes" backwards when you come off the brakes, turing what was perhaps 80/20 to more like 40/60 or worse.

This means they cannot take anything like the speed into the corner as even the 50/50 driver, never mind the 70/30 driver. Outcome is they end up slower over the lap.
The above is a combined post in that it explains what a technique is (how to do it) and why you'd do it. It also introduces the concept which is perhaps THE principle key to understanding how to drive quickly and safely, CONSIDERING THE WEIGHT OF THE CAR, or more specifically, understanding weight transfer, how it effects the car and how you can exploit it.

Given that all the front 12 drivers in this years SEAT or CLIO championship have the abililty to control the car, drive the optimum line etc and have honed the 1000s of other skills required to drive quickly on track, the guy on pole is dealing with/using the weight better than those behind him ... in general of course, the only things thats black and white in racing is the chequered flag!

So, now you know about trail-braking you can all go back out on track, brake even later and keep the brakes on as you turn and go quicker yes? well no, of course not, before you can trail-BRAKE you need to be able to BRAKE and most trackday drivers and even most club racers can't/don't brake properly. I think it was Jackie Stewart that said it took him years to learn how to brake properly and he put it down as one of his most valuable skills in making him the driver he was.

Well, I shouldn't really dangle the carrot without giving you a chance to read it. I recently emailed a "student" about proper braking technique etc. Ideally it needs to verbal follow up, trial-error, feedback etc. etc. but it does explain what I mean, will post it as a reply to this thread...

Maxx

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Post by Maxx »

[copy of email]

Below is a snippet of an email I sent to one of the other guys I regularly coach. His "problem"
is that he is braking very hard (you don't brake as hard [usually] but still need to develop
this "dynamic" or progressive braking I am talking of) and taking off to much speed before
corner entry (which you also do) and doesn't allow the car to do any work in the corner entry
phase (which you also need to progress more towards).

So, thought it might be interesting for you.

Regards

Malcolm

---------------------------------------------

It's interesting that I am getting to that stage now with a few of the drivers I regularly instruct.
It's a tough transition, i think it was Jackie Stewart that put a lot of his speed down to learning
how to release the brake pedal and said it took him years to master this, i'll try and dig out the quote.

I found something on my PC re: braking which I include below, the bit I particularly like is the
tightrope walker analogy. It's moe to do with brake release but brake application is important also.

Using his numbering system (10 being maximum brake pressure before lockup AS YOU PERCEIVE IT) then
you are generally braking like so : 0, 0, 0, 0, 10, 10, 10, 10, 10, 10 etc. this causes a huge
weight-shift forward at the first 10 and that 10 is the maximum you can brake with THAT AMOUNT OF
WEIGHT-SHIFT. (The total for those 10 "braking scores" is 60

An alternative approach is to brake a touch sooner and more progressively, like so : 0, 0, 3, 6, 10,
12, 13, 13, 11, 8. There is much less "immediate" weight shift which actually allows you to brake harder
as the weight builds up gradually. The total of these 10 "braking score" is 76.

So, in actually fact YOU DON'T NEED TO BRAKE EARLIER. You can brake at the same spot, slowing down
less in the first few yards (saves time) and improving stability under braking. Assuming you also use
dynamic brake release (i.e. progressive) you can enter the corner with more stability, more speed and
under greater control.

Now, gradual doesn't mean slow. You get your foot over very quick but when you press you press with
a slack foot then press harder with your toes, the same in reverse.

I've seen some video that shows this really well but, as ever I can't find it, there are a couple
on line that show it pretty wwell


Ayrton Senna
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ts29KKhKXds

Shows feet & pedals, a bit dark but hopefully you can see the technique.

Walter Rohl.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ts29KKhKXds
Amazing clip anyway but this also shows the Rally driver technique. Now old
Walt was a bit special IMO, amazing feet and much of it is LFB but you can see
in some parts the variable brake pressure. It is perhaps even more important
on loose surface and also shows up LOADS more. I never really had a problem
teaching this in Gravel Rally instruction, you could instantly feel the difference.

We'd go constant speed to a cone, brake as hard as possible to come to a stop as
soon as possible with NO LOCKUP. This required progressive brake application and
release. Once mastered you could stop in half the distance. Incidentally, it is
also an aspect of the LOTUS SKILLS courses they run at Hethel and we ran at Rockingham
for many years.

Anyway, all for now.

See you soon.

Regards

Malcolm


[quote]
DYNAMIC BRAKE RELEASE by GRANT RILEY

Born: Los Gatos, CA May 14, 1973

I got into racing late. I was around 22 years old and working construction in Phoenix when I finally realized that I could fulfill my dream at Skip Barber Racing School. Basically, I quit my job, attended my three day and went on to race the Western Race series. Two seasons, several wins, 5 million laps, a couple of big ones and a 80 shifter go-kart later, I moved up to the Star Mazda series with support from my family, family friends and some help from the race team.

I spent another two seasons in Mazda and in the second year just missed the championship after winning the most races. In 1999 I was one of ten drivers invited to test for the then recently formed

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duncan
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Re: Technique Post : Trail-Braking

Post by duncan »

Maxx wrote: Of course, we all know that exit speed is THE most important aspect of MOST corners so, at the apex we would want to start applying power. Now, the grip we have has to be shared between the cornering grip we still require (mid-corner) and the power we wish to apply. If we add power it takes grip away from cornering, so we need to UNWIND (less grip required for steering, more available for power). As it also moves grip more rearward we need to ensure we account for this also.
This explains why Ben Devlin was getting me and Stu to unwind the steering on the corners at Snetterton and apply full throttle.... very interesting :D

Malcolm - does trail-braking benefit certain cars more such as those with low weight over the front wheels such as Porsche's and those with a tendency to understeer (imprezas) ?

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Post by andycaca »

malc, thats a fantastic writeup - im always eager to read more about driving techniques and put them to the test. ever since i read A twist of the wrist i've been fastinated by the physics and science involved. on bikes, i used to drag the rear brake very slighty on some corners to help the rear end settle.
Celica GT4 ST165 Sprint Special. GT3071@2.0bar

Maxx
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Re: Technique Post : Trail-Braking

Post by Maxx »

dynamix wrote: This explains why Ben Devlin was getting me and Stu to unwind the steering on the corners at Snetterton and apply full throttle.... very interesting :D
Absolutely, managing the available traction is a fundamental of track driving. You may hear it referred to as the "Traction Circle" or "Traction Budget" (which I prefer). Essentially you have only so much traction/grip available which needs to either be used for braking/cornering or accelerating, whatever you use for any one of them takes away some of the budget for the others and the trick is therefore using whats available for the most useful purpose. When straight line braking for a corner then it's easy .. 100% for braking, when straight line accelerating out of a corner it's also easy .. 100% for accleration. It's what you do in the bit in between thats the real skill and where you can make time up on another, similarly spec'd car.
Malcolm - does trail-braking benefit certain cars more such as those with low weight over the front wheels such as Porsche's and those with a tendency to understeer (imprezas) ?
The short answer is yes, the fundamental is that you need to maximise this "Traction Budget" through every phase of the corner. The Porsche tends to be understeery because it's weight is rear byassed. So, if you were say cornering with an M3 (50:50 weight [F:R]) and to take the corner optimally you needed a 70/30 weight balance you'd only need to trail-brake sufficiently to move 20% weight forward. If in the Porsche which, say is 40/60 you'd need much firmer trail-braking to acheive that 70:30 split). It's not quite that cleat cut though as, because you have more rear weight under balanced throttle conditions in the Porsche you'd perhaps need to limit the weight ratio on entry to 65/35.

The Imprezza (as standard) appears to understeer because of mechanical reasons, weight ratio is probably around 50:50 and certainly the same as an EVO which is regarded (by me also) to turn-in much better (again, as standard). The requirement (weight/grip wise) is still 70:30 as we have determines that this is the optimum so going in with more trail-braking wouldn't really work. Instead, to try and counteract the mechanical tendency you'd try and use some lateral weight transfer to help turn-in. At it's extreme that would be something like the "Scandinavian Flick" but for circuit driving a very subtle version. This can either be a) Turn-in with something nearer 75:25 and hold that until the back strarts to break away, let it move a little then "catch it" by adding a bit of power to move weight back to the rear. a) As you approach a right-hander, ease off the brake just a little, apply a very subtle and not too quick bit of right-hand lock, just enough to move more weight onto the right-hand side of the car, then flick it back right for the corner, backing well off the brake, maybe fully. Your not trail-braking really there, you've used the lateral weight transfer to put the required weight over the front left wheel/tyre.

Generally all standard road cars will have some built-in mechanical inclination to understeer which is usually just a geometry thing. The above "imprezza" technique can be used in any car as an alternative to traditional trail-braking but not recommended for cars with a rear weight bias (Porsche/Lotus/Ferrari etc.)

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Post by duncan »

Geometry changes have reduced understeer on my car to minimal but still with an inclination to plough straight on if the traction budget is overused. Am I right in thinking that a similar effect could be had with the weight transfer when initial turn-in is gradually applied rather than too harshly whilst trail-braking to bring the nsf tyre under maximum load gradually?

This would seem to be similar to the braking forces technique shown above to load it gradually to effect more grip than would initially be possible by simply turning to full lock initially.

Or i could be talking balls :D

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Post by Maxx »

dynamix wrote:Or i could be talking balls :D
Duncan,

No balls there, your absolutely right, steering as well as braking and throttle application should be a progressive thing. How progressive is again dependent on corner and handling characteristics and of course weather conditions. Sometimes it's hardly progressive at all, which I call "pitch it in", with this you are trying to create a little movement with the rear (exaggerated weight shift) to help turn the car, more oftren use for tighter corners, hairpins etc. and of course another element of the 2nd technique above to combat mechanical understeer. The other extreme is what I call "stroke it in" which means you are adding lock bit by bit, very progressively and at it's extreme all the way to the apex. A classic corner for using this is McLeans at Donington. It's made even better there by the fact that the approach to the corner (to the apex) is uphill so grip actually increases as you go further into the turn. You generally wouldn't use trail-braking there, in fact in most cars I don't brake AT ALL for McLeans. I lift off quite early to slow and settle the car a little, there is also a gear-change here which slows the car, then stroke it in very gently and keep applying lock all the way to the apex. Coppice is similar in that it's uphill but you crest the rise a fraction after you turn so this tends to be more like a pitch in, purely because of the rise. The car will naturally slow once into the corner and I can add a little more lock then. Many trackday drivers don't turn until they see the apex by which time they have crested the rise, so, when they do turn in they have less grip, hence enter more slowly.

I've extracted a section of a Donington video I did on a recent LoT day, the agreement with LoT is that if I have a session off and it's not too busy, I can go out on track myself. The car is an MR2 roadster which has had slightly lower springs and a chassis brace, but thats it. It's meant as a dialy drive as I use it 12 months of the year in all weathers. It's quite well balanced and fun on track but at 130hp and about 1200kg it's not "quick". Car is running on standard Toyo T1-Rs.

The video has a data overlay which I added afterwards (from a DL1 logger) but it seems I didn't synch it up properly as it seems to lag behind the video. It's still useful to see the brake application and removal though, very progressive, you can see the trail-braking in particular at Redgate (classic corner to teach trail-braking). Pay particular attention to the steering inputs. On one lap I miss 3rd gear (go into 5th) for McLeans, see the effect as I am then not able to move so much weight to the rear with the throttle.

Video is here : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=otfjHg_7N0g

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Post by duncan »

Coming up to Hohe Acht is a great example of this for me .... sooo much grip :D

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Post by Maxx »

COMING OFF THE BRAKES

I mentioned this above and there was a great example of it during yesterdays A1GP race coverage.

The video shows Robbie Kerr's feet as he drives round Brands Hatch GP Circuit. What to look for is how he COMES OFF the brakes like I mention above. Difficult to tell if he is trail-braking from the picture but looking at what he is doing he definitely is in places. Note he is fairly swiftly onto the brake but he's not stamping and he really does ease off the brakes gently. Note also HOW he does this, initially he just relaxes his foot (with him it's a tipping action) which is the way to think about doing it. If you brake predominantly with your toe or upper ball of your foot, the way to initialy ease off the brake is to relax your foot and then ease off gently.

Here is the Video : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w2yH6JHl42U

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Post by duncan »

It shows it very well in my opinion. Nice video, although he seemed a bit ragged on the actual track ;)

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