certainly is....... :-Dpablo wrote:Is that seat on sliding rails?
Time Attack - ESC Race Car - Alive & Kicking!! + Power G
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Well Tuesday saw the next update/change to the car....
Blown Inter cooler pipe from Brands Final Last year...


Well now replaced with some solid and shiny!


And next job for the weekend???
Well this is now drained (10k fine if you vent to atmosphere!) and waiting for removal... a few extra Kg's

Blown Inter cooler pipe from Brands Final Last year...


Well now replaced with some solid and shiny!


And next job for the weekend???
Well this is now drained (10k fine if you vent to atmosphere!) and waiting for removal... a few extra Kg's

Take regular exercise, walk to you car!
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Well some good progress made again today, although not quite what i planned....
The air-con proved too difficult in the end... i thought it was just 2 bolts on the compressor, but goes to show how little i know!!!!! Didn't quite work out exactly what had to be done to get it off, but i@m sure I'll work it out....
Did get the EDFC (electronic damper force control) changed and i now have suspension control again!!! the wires under the rear seat had been cut and this had shorted out the head unit, but all is OK now with a new head unit..
Also got the gauges mounted again with a cheap and cheerful eBay purchase.

Next was replacing these standard 1 pot rears....

To these nice Brembo STI 2 pot rears....

Yes i know i won't win any show and shine with my wheels.. but just goes to show the damage that can be done with DS3000's..
Well with the rear callipers changed, i could change the pads all round to something a little more to my liking.
So Pagids 29 Yellows on the rear (a nice endurance race pad. Application: All endurance racing cars from group N (Speed-WC, Grand Am Cup), Group A up to GT and Sport-Prototypes (Grand Am DP). )
Pagid 15 Greys on the front (a high friction race pad. Although the RS15 has a good controllability and release characteristic it needs finesse to avoid over braking the car, :Suspiciou especially with lightweight cars or cars with boosted brakes. Applications: Touring cars, Rally cars (tarmac), GT cars, WSC, high down-force single-seater's, NASCAR.) :norty:
And initial thoughts after a short run, prior to bedding in fully, is that the car stops way quicker than I'm used to and will be awesome, although the whiplash will get tiring after a while. :lol1:
The air-con proved too difficult in the end... i thought it was just 2 bolts on the compressor, but goes to show how little i know!!!!! Didn't quite work out exactly what had to be done to get it off, but i@m sure I'll work it out....
Did get the EDFC (electronic damper force control) changed and i now have suspension control again!!! the wires under the rear seat had been cut and this had shorted out the head unit, but all is OK now with a new head unit..
Also got the gauges mounted again with a cheap and cheerful eBay purchase.

Next was replacing these standard 1 pot rears....

To these nice Brembo STI 2 pot rears....

Yes i know i won't win any show and shine with my wheels.. but just goes to show the damage that can be done with DS3000's..
Well with the rear callipers changed, i could change the pads all round to something a little more to my liking.
So Pagids 29 Yellows on the rear (a nice endurance race pad. Application: All endurance racing cars from group N (Speed-WC, Grand Am Cup), Group A up to GT and Sport-Prototypes (Grand Am DP). )
Pagid 15 Greys on the front (a high friction race pad. Although the RS15 has a good controllability and release characteristic it needs finesse to avoid over braking the car, :Suspiciou especially with lightweight cars or cars with boosted brakes. Applications: Touring cars, Rally cars (tarmac), GT cars, WSC, high down-force single-seater's, NASCAR.) :norty:
And initial thoughts after a short run, prior to bedding in fully, is that the car stops way quicker than I'm used to and will be awesome, although the whiplash will get tiring after a while. :lol1:
Take regular exercise, walk to you car!
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Yep the WD40 can has now officialy gone from my intercooler set up!!!! :-Ddynamix wrote:Great news on the brakes Mike - you will well and truly be the last of the late brakers then
Good to get rid of the coke can aswell
As long as the to-do list is coming down then any progress is good progress :thumb:
Progress feels very slow, but it as you say, progress at least....
As for the breaks... lots of vibration and pedal travel as all 4 bed-in, but it really does pull up quick!!! :twisted:
Take regular exercise, walk to you car!
Nice to see you entering again Mike, I'll help you strip the air-con (engine bay side) at Donny on the Saturday if you like.
The pump and bracket just unbolts ('degass it in accordance with tree hugging regs 1st obviously), squeeze the heat exchanger past your radiator, then un bolt and 'snap' off the pipes that go to the bulhead, approx, 1hrs work. Knuckle-scraping factor 2/5
Job jobbed!
The pump and bracket just unbolts ('degass it in accordance with tree hugging regs 1st obviously), squeeze the heat exchanger past your radiator, then un bolt and 'snap' off the pipes that go to the bulhead, approx, 1hrs work. Knuckle-scraping factor 2/5
Job jobbed!
Team Monkfish Racing


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Thanks for the offer Dill..... i hope i can find he solution, but looks like the whole bracket holding the air-con and alternator needs to come off. then the air-con pump can be removed from the bracket and the bracket put back.....Dill wrote:Nice to see you entering again Mike, I'll help you strip the air-con (engine bay side) at Donny on the Saturday if you like.
The pump and bracket just unbolts ('degass it in accordance with tree hugging regs 1st obviously), squeeze the heat exchanger past your radiator, then un bolt and 'snap' off the pipes that go to the bulhead, approx, 1hrs work. Knuckle-scraping factor 2/5
Job jobbed!
Take regular exercise, walk to you car!
The bracket is in parts, so you can just remove the part that holds the air-con pump, think it has about 4 bolts max, quite long ones if i remember.
The small pipes are a bit fiddly that go to the engine firewall past the RHS of engine so I just snapped them and the p=clip to get them off.
The small pipes are a bit fiddly that go to the engine firewall past the RHS of engine so I just snapped them and the p=clip to get them off.
Team Monkfish Racing


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Thanks Dill,
Managed to work it out this morning....
OK so I managed to strip out the AC compressor and radiator...

Which has left a nice big hole in the engine bay

And I've managed to save a whole 9Kgs
:-D
mind you i washed the car too and that must have saved 5Kgs.. :lol:
Managed to work it out this morning....
OK so I managed to strip out the AC compressor and radiator...

Which has left a nice big hole in the engine bay

And I've managed to save a whole 9Kgs

mind you i washed the car too and that must have saved 5Kgs.. :lol:
Take regular exercise, walk to you car!