The boring bit :roll:
I will ordering the plasti gauge tomorrow but you have to know the size range first 0.028
RB26 Rebuild
Great thread, been waiting for someone to do this on here for ages!!!
I will most probably be taking my engine out over next winter but will not be rebuilding it to quite the detail you have, my thinking is that once an engine has had its bottom end tinkered about with it is never quite the same as the reliabilty it has had when OEM but i suppose it depends on what power you plan on putting through it etc.
You say you have an engine manual you are working to, is this the one which has been floating about on here which is on a disc? The one i have is not very detailed.
I will be putting in a N1 water and oil pump, metal head gasket, cams, etc but leaving the bottom end and pistons etc.
Whats the best way to tackle getting the engine out the car please?
I will most probably be taking my engine out over next winter but will not be rebuilding it to quite the detail you have, my thinking is that once an engine has had its bottom end tinkered about with it is never quite the same as the reliabilty it has had when OEM but i suppose it depends on what power you plan on putting through it etc.
You say you have an engine manual you are working to, is this the one which has been floating about on here which is on a disc? The one i have is not very detailed.
I will be putting in a N1 water and oil pump, metal head gasket, cams, etc but leaving the bottom end and pistons etc.
Whats the best way to tackle getting the engine out the car please?
I think this is true of quite a few engines that get rebuilt once they have failed, you get small partials of metal that can get trapped in the oil ways of the crankshaft, connecting rods ,cams, head and block. You have to drill out the oil way plugs to clean the block, also the block and ladder can distorted .323ian wrote:Great thread, been waiting for someone to do this on here for ages!!!
I will most probably be taking my engine out over next winter but will not be rebuilding it to quite the detail you have, my thinking is that once an engine has had its bottom end tinkered about with it is never quite the same as the reliabilty it has had when OEM but i suppose it depends on what power you plan on putting through it etc.
You say you have an engine manual you are working to, is this the one which has been floating about on here which is on a disc? The one i have is not very detailed.
I will be putting in a N1 water and oil pump, metal head gasket, cams, etc but leaving the bottom end and pistons etc.
Whats the best way to tackle getting the engine out the car please?
I have the same PDF file that
The parts arrived Monday so quite quick really,two weeks. I have decided to go for the Nismo oil pump so another two weeks to wait but I can be getting the crank machined for the Jun oil pump drive collar
Change of plan :roll: after a bit more thought the Nismo does not increase pressure much more than a standard pump, so it came down to either JUN (On back order) Greddy, Tomei, Reimax, HKS.
So I have ordered a HKS pump hope this is not a bit of overkill :-D
Change of plan :roll: after a bit more thought the Nismo does not increase pressure much more than a standard pump, so it came down to either JUN (On back order) Greddy, Tomei, Reimax, HKS.
So I have ordered a HKS pump hope this is not a bit of overkill :-D
A couple of pictures one of the HKS oil pump gears next to the standard pump and another of a Tomei big end shell. Tomei have made the surface of their shells very hard to withstand a impact with the crankshaft, this is different to the Nismo shells which have a soft surface
http://uk.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/paul.c ... as,1%3af,0
http://uk.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/paul.c ... as,1%3af,0