Wrx Sti Type R V5

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stockcar
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Post by stockcar »

as std they have an electronic boost valve on the drivers side turret.................

as above 0.6 BAR is basically actuator pressure only
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Ben
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Post by Ben »

So has a good look around the engine bay to look for potential hose issues. Nothing that I could see - infact most hoses look new. Turbo is the standard VF28 - I couldn't get to test the actuator as it's got the heatshield in the way.

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A bit about the turbo.

"VF28 This turbo came on the Subaru Impreza STi Version 5. In terms of its size, it is smaller than the VF22, VF30 and VF34, and about same size as the VF23. you would Expect to hit full boost with the correct supporting mods and a good map any where between 2800-3300rpms. 425cfm at 18psi anything around 320bhp is achievable

So then looked to the Boost controller - all pipes seem connected properly.

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Some general shots

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Alot of parts look to have been renewed so that's rather nice :)
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Ben
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Post by Ben »

Going to start cleaning up parts and painting a few over the next weeks. Engine bay is generally cleaner than my GTR was! .. And definitely a repaint on the plenum :)
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mattie170
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Post by mattie170 »

I guess the boost solenoid is always live so have you tried unplugging it with the ignition on to see if it clicks at all?

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Ben
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Post by Ben »

When you go to the ignition stage just before starting it starts to click on and off repeatedly! ..

But more importantly the product code on the boost controller is for a newage one!. 16102AA160. That said after some research it seems to be the standard 2 port model on most!. Cheap as chips and available from imprezabreakers.
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mattie170
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Post by mattie170 »

Have you tried unplugging it when it's idling. Should still click.

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RX7
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Post by RX7 »

You can buy the crinkle paint from Halfrauds mate I think, seem to remember the Honda boys saying it was one of the better ones. Prob best to see if you can get another from the Impreza breakers first to play with ? Dont forget to check Frayz thread for tips :)

Plus deffo paint what looks like the coolant top and clean the bit of metal / plastic to the left of the bit that says TB 80k. Will look heaps better then mate after just doing those bits. Dunno if you can do anything about the heatshield though ?
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Tk
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Post by Tk »

Look under your dash below steering wheel and there are two green plugs and two black ones that are not connected
Connect the two green ones and turn on your ignition but dont start it and it resets your Ecu and checks your boost solenoid is clicking, it also turn on fans

The two black ones are for checking fault codes obviously do the black plugs first or your fault codes will be erased if you do green first

If you want to clean your boost solenoid connect green plugs and turn on ignition this will make your solenoid click and with the hoses removed spray carb cleaner into the side port
Put a rag down under it to mop up cleaners as it passes through
Small one's are more juicy

Tk
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Post by Tk »

Disconnect plug again before starting
And fault codes will show up on flashes on the check engine light
Different sequences means different faults
A constant flash means no faults found
Small one's are more juicy

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Ben
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Post by Ben »

Interestingly - when you turn the ignition - the solenoid clicks and the fans come on ! ...
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