in a quandry

[PhatBob]

It doesnt need to be changed, its just one of those handy little mods that you might as well do while your doing the fuel pump. Have a google for: fuel pump hardwire kit. You don't need to buy one though as all you need to do is to replace the pump's power feed wires with a heavier gauge of wire, measure the resistance across the fuel pump's connector pins and we can work out the current draw using Ohms law and spec the cable accordingly.

Also a nice thing to do for your engine is to make sure that your grounding is clean and effective, the reasons that those grounding kits work so well is because its an area that people overlook, and its a vital for the ECU's correct function, again you don't need to buy a grounding kit unless you like the look of the oxygen free lovelyness, but thats a story for another day.

[boxy]

It doesnt need to be changed, its just one of those handy little mods that you might as well do while your doing the fuel pump. Have a google for: fuel pump hardwire kit. You don't need to buy one though as all you need to do is to replace the pump's power feed wires with a heavier gauge of wire, measure the resistance across the fuel pump's connector pins and we can work out the current draw using Ohms law and spec the cable accordingly.

Also a nice thing to do for your engine is to make sure that your grounding is clean and effective, the reasons that those grounding kits work so well is because its an area that people overlook, and its a vital for the ECU's correct function, again you don't need to buy a grounding kit unless you like the look of the oxygen free lovelyness, but thats a story for another day.

Thanks for that I re-wired my car stereo with new 10 gauge straight from the battery(fused) and and new larger earth so it`s not a problem re-wiring the fuel pump. Thanks for the info.

[PhatBob]

No problems, its not a power boosting mod, just one of those mods you'd wished you'd done if the worst happened.
It would be handy if you could post the resistance of the pump motor.

Rob

[boxy]

I have just purchased the walbro 255 uprated pump for a nice

[slaphead]

gets pretty expensive when u start looking at rebuilding/upgrading internals very quickly. personally i would go for a good standalone (boost solenoid controlled by ECU or boost controller) to start off with. mapping is where its at

.................

I don't now if this will help but this is my current spec with a standard fuel pump (402bhp)

Uprated R33 Turbos - Steel and roller bearing
M's Air intakes and Filters - (horrid cheapo temporary ones currently)
Hard pipe kit from compressors to intercooler ***prob doesn't make a lot of difference
Large Intercooler with Aluminium Piping Kit to inlet plenum
Greddy Boost controller
Kakimoto Exhaust System 4

[Nize]

I would guess that Slaphead's car's a GTR (std pump good for 400+bhp), but without a doubt you will be needing some sort of fuel control and boost control if you want to add to the mods you already have.
But its not gonna be cheap tho...

The basic "stage 1" type mods for the RB's is:
Induction Kit, De-catted, large bore exhaust, Front mount intercooler, boost controller, uprated fuel pump, and some kind of fuel controller either SAFC or similar.
Or a Power FC is something to consider too, especially if your going to be wanting more than basic bolt-on mods at some point.

People have also found that if using the Walbro pumps, that tired FPR's can cause overfuelling, as they cannot cope very well.
I dont know how true that is, but an uprated one such as Nismo's is rated very highly.

If you use this basically as an essential list of things to get before going for upped boost, you will have a very tunable and drivable motor.
Should see up to 350bhp with these mods no problem.

To push past this figure ('stage 2' mods) , you will need to change to aftermarket turbo, or standard one with steel internals, as they can only safely run around 0.8bar as standard.
Also, the injectors will need to be replaced too, possibly 444's/550's, or even 740's to give you further scope for tuning later.

You could then be seeing up to 450bhp+ with a good map, and 400+ safely all day/night.
However, for over 400bhp, a Nismo N1 oil and Water pump upgrade is recomended too.

[boxy]

Well that is very helpful. I have the Walbro pump, decat, induction kit, and big bore exhaust so I think the next step due to the consensus of everyone else is to go for Fuel controller, FMIC, boost controller(which is already on its way) and ecu with FC commander.

Then later on
Uprated Turbo
Fuel Injectors
Oil cooler
Cams
Conrods and pistons
Flywheel

Will the standard clutch handle the stage 1 mods?

[hybrid dreams]

sounds like a plan. some very good info on this post as well as very good setups.