Bigpower

As we have an aftermarket turbo on our car we have have also fitted an oil cooler. Am i correct in thinking that we need to increase the amount of oil in the engine to allow for the oil coller and pipes. Also should we measure the amount of fluid that it holds. The turbo is also oil cooled should we allow for this.
With the extent of the current engine rebuild and future plans for the car I feel the need to increase my knowledge and understanding of tuned engines.

Theoretically, yes you do need to increase the amount of oil in the system by the volume of the oil cooler and pipework.

In reality though, it would suffice to put in the normal amount of oil and run the engine until the oil cooler has filled (is it thermostatically controlled?), then check and top up. You'll know when the thermostat has opened because the oil cooler and pipework will be much hotter to touch.

HTH.

It took an extra litre on mine if that helps Pablo

Cheers guys...the oil cooler is not thermastatically controlled so should fill up straight away.

What orientation are you fitting the cooler? Bear in mind that you need to get the air out for it to fill and work properly. Hope that's not patronising but some people don't consider how the thing will fill.

You may get away with just the normal dipstick level. The oil shouldn't drain back to the sump from the cooler or turbo once filled.

IMO

its not partanising at all mate and its made me think.
our oil cooler works the following way....

between the block and the oil filter is the seporator were the oil from the engine goes into
seporator thru the oil pipe up to the cooler then into the cooler then back down the other pipe to the oil filter
then into the sump, there is no one way valve along the system.

You don't need a one way valve just a path for air removal.

For instance, if you mount the cooler with both pipes entering from below, chances are the air will be trapped at the top so the top few rows will never see oil. This will reduce the efficiency and possibly cause pressure problems because air is compressible where oil isn't.

Ideal orientation, from my point of view, is connections on the side. Oil entering from the bottom and exit from the top. That way the cooler fills and the air gets pushed upwards and out.

When I do an oil change on mine, I fill the sump, disable the ignition and fuelling (on a scooby this is achieved by disconnecting the crank sensor). crank the engine for 20 seconds or so and slacken the top pipe connector on the cooler. Repeat a few times till no ar hisses out.

My cooler is in front of the rad high up so the top connection is the highest point of the oil path.

Also, when I drain the oil, I remove the sump plug and filter. When the old oil has finished running out, I then crack the top cooler connection to let air into the system and with that, the contents of the cooler is released through the filter housing.

Just a check really to satisfy my autistic side

Never thought about the air inside the cooler :roll: . Last year the pipes were on the top of the cooler so the oil basically poured in. After looking at a few others we have inverted it this year so it fills up from the bottom.

[quote="&quot"]

When I do an oil change on mine, I fill the sump, disable the ignition and fuelling (on a scooby this is achieved by disconnecting the crank sensor). crank the engine for 20 seconds or so and slacken the top pipe connector on the cooler. Repeat a few times till no ar hisses out.

quote]

Sorry, should have said. Repeat a few times till no ar hisses out and clean oil runs out.