Bigpower

Guys,

I know very little about paint on cars.

Would someone who knows about it post up what happens when going from a bare fibreglass / metal etc panel through to the panel finished.

Be good to get some background knowledge.

Stage one

Use fairy liquid

Stage two

Use scotch pads to abrade knackered paintwork

Stage three

Shake cans

Stage four

Spray liberally
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My patented technique should work on bare metal although for proper nasty finishes, it is always recommended to leave some patchy lacquer on from the previous efforts :thumb:

For a serious answer, you may have to PM Shooter to make him aware of this thread :wack:

I was gonna see if Gary posted on this but was expecting a few more replies.

I thought your paint was made by Dulux Stu....and you painted it on lol

I can vouch for Stu's technique although he missed out the step of masking.


No, seriously he really did miss out the step of masking :lol:

Gareth,

Theres not really a definitive answer as for the best results it would depend on the condition of the bodywork in the first place. Even "new" panels can need major work, especially fibreglass bodywork and bodykits. As an example, the new GBH Time Attack car has had the following donw to what to the untrained eye looked like good fitting widearches....

Original shell stripped, cleaned and then shot blasted
Etching primer onto this to ensure everything else sticks properly
Bodykit cut and fitted as tight as possible (bodywork and fit looked better than the orange at this point !!!)
Base of firbeglass epoxy to bring up some of the shallower areas
Rubed down until relatively flat
A couple of layers of filler rubbed down until very flat
Another complete layer of filler over pretty much the whole car almost all of which is then rubbed down to ensure all minor imperfections are gone
Sprayed with primer to check for any further imperfections
Heavier grade primer sprayed in areas that still need a touch of work
Rubbed down more
Totally cleaned from top to toe
Major openings masked up at this time
Fully primed with the finish grade primer

At this point there is still no "paint" on the car and depending on what finish you are going for you could be looking at upwards of another 10 stages from here !!!!! Basecoats, top coats, specials, lacquers etc etc

This is why a respray like Daves R32 costs in excess of 5k not including "fixing" things like rust, rubbers etc etc etc

Hope this helps,

J.

or just take it to H-Tech and get them to do it Gareth

ps - Bladey - is this the one coming out to play at BH?

Cheers for that Bladey,

Dunk the bits are going in wed to be done.

Just was interested, thats all.