Page 1 of 1

Spraying wheels

Posted: Fri Apr 06, 2007 9:28 pm
by Gerry H
Fancied a change of colour from gold so, went to the local paint factors. Told the guy, I know nothing about paint so, what do I need?

Posted: Fri Apr 06, 2007 10:33 pm
by Stuart
I would have thought rubbing the wheels down with a fine grit paper would be fine Gerry as you'll be building it up again afterwards. Having said this, I am the sort of person to dive in and ask questions later (see my project thread)

Why not PM Shooter on here and ask his advice?

Posted: Fri Apr 06, 2007 10:40 pm
by Gerry H
Dive in then ask is the theme here :-D

I don't know Shooter but I'll do a search and see.

Need to get rid of road dirt and grime. I'll start with a good dose of 'Wonder Wheels' that seems a pretty aggressive chemical cleaner, then go for the abrasive paper and dreaded elbow grease.

Might do a blow by blow pictorial thead to show others 'how not to' :o

Posted: Fri Apr 06, 2007 11:37 pm
by Stuart
You go first Gerry. I'll be doing a spare set of wheels soon :D

My Advans have some serious burnt on brake cake and no chemical I've found touches it. I intend to abrade the surface after a general clean up, use some of Shooters magic alloy cleaner and then rub them down properly, clean again, etch prime and then paint, more paint and then lacquer........quite looking forwards to doing them to be honest :thumb:

Posted: Sat Apr 07, 2007 12:50 am
by martin
with 2 pack it contains isocyanide you will defo need a good mask to spray with that mate :grin:

and make sure you mix it proply with the correct ratio 3-5 parts paint to 1 part hardener and you must clean your gun out proply or it will set in your gun
for best results it needs bakeing

Posted: Sat Apr 07, 2007 7:30 am
by Gerry H
stuartstaples wrote:You go first Gerry. I'll be doing a spare set of wheels soon :D

My Advans have some serious burnt on brake cake and no chemical I've found touches it. I intend to abrade the surface after a general clean up, use some of Shooters magic alloy cleaner and then rub them down properly, clean again, etch prime and then paint, more paint and then lacquer........quite looking forwards to doing them to be honest :thumb:
I tried a search and found where Shooter advises against Wonder Wheels as it's acid based. I reckon that's ideal then for removing the cr@p.

martin wrote:with 2 pack it contains isocyanide you will defo need a good mask to spray with that mate :grin:

and make sure you mix it proply with the correct ratio 3-5 parts paint to 1 part hardener and you must clean your gun out proply or it will set in your gun
for best results it needs bakeing
Thanks Martin, the guy in the shop did mention something about cyanide and masks. Being a tight whatsit, I did a quick mental inventory of what might be suitable, or can be modified, to do the job. Halloween, Lone Ranger, Zorro, Gimp :o (where'd that come from?)

So that accounted for almost

Posted: Sat Apr 07, 2007 7:35 am
by shooter
If you are going to wet flat the wheels there's no need to use wheel cleaner first the wet n dry will do the cleaning for you.

If you want to save time, mask of the tyres properly, even over mask them to be really sure unless you get them removed first. Then use some paint stripper Nitromor is great for wheels as its a gel follow the instructions on the tin.

Once all the paint is removed wet flat to give a nice flat surface, preparation is the key to a good finish. Once they are all flatted perfectly give the wheels a good wash with a strong washing up liquid mix and loads and loads of water, dry thoroughly.

Next wipe all the wheels with panel wipe, thinners if you don't have this to remove any last signs of grease and oils inc finger prints, oh wear latex gloves to stop this plus protect hands from the solvents.

Next up is etch primer, this will either be the spray can type or mix and spray via a gun. Follow the instructions and give the wheels a couple of light coats making sure total coverage in all corners etc. Once dry use some 2000 grit wet n dry or a light cut pad (green washing up scouring pad is fine) and lightly scuff the surface to give a key for the next layer.

If you have regular primer give them a coat of this next else 2 more light coats of etch and again once dry scuff the surface, this time with wet n dry as you are looking to make the surface as smooth as glass. Once dry panel wipe them, this time it does need to be panel wipe as paint thinners is too agressive.

Next up colour, light even coats are the way, this will help make sure they are level, cut down the risk of runs etc and allow you to tailor the colour depth slightly. Better to do all the wheels at the same time here as it cuts down the risk of changes in how and what you do which can affect the finished colour. Allow flash time between coats, normally I would suggest 10 - 15 mins, this allows solvents to evaporate but doesn't allow the paint to fully cure, thus allowing the next coat to key into the previous one.

Once you have the desired colour depth and coverage allow them to dry for 20 mins, no not flat them, unless there is a prob, and if you do then you'll need to add another light coat, flatting will knock down the flakes/pearls that are at the top giving a different finish to the non flatted parts :(.

Lastly the clear coat, again light coats with flash time between them, don't rush this part or you'll ruin the end look, work to get a wet look without dry lines, have the gun about 12" away and smooth flowing sweeps, yes i know wheels are round and small but allow the spray patten the start and finish off the wheels so getting a constant paint application on them rather than start and stop marks. I would suggest at least 3 coats of clear on them, taking your time you can add more but after 3 allow them over night to cure and release the solvents, then you can wet flat 2000 grit again to level them off, don't break through or you'll have fun disguising this totally. Once flatted degrease and another couple of light coats to finish.

Again allow at least 24 hours for them to cure before you do anything, and if you got the above right and the spraying part you will have some sweet looking rims.

Sorry for the log post, also read the suppliers mix ratio's for the paint's every manufacturer has different ratio's so thats why I've not mentioned them.

Safety items, yes 2k paint (2 pack) is not healthy so take some precautions, a dusk mask is a must although this will only stop the dust not the fumes, however since Jan 01 2007 the laws changed with regards to the solvents contained in paints, so although 2k is still harmful the odd once painting without proper equipment shouldn't do you any harm (disclaimer on your head be it). Don't forget almost all paint products are flammable, so take sensible precautions.

Lastly the above is only a guide, I'm not always right, if I get anything wrong, well sorry but I take no responsibility (sorry in today's age I have to cover myself.

Posted: Sat Apr 07, 2007 7:53 am
by Gerry H
That was brilliant. Thank you Shooter.

The guy in the shop was basically saying what you've just written, but not in so much detail.

It's a sad indictment of the age we live in that, when trying to help someone, a disclaimer is needed :x I was reading a couple of jokes that had been posted on another forum, the other day which finished by stating that no offence was intended, etc. :x

If I screw up, there'll be only one person to blame :roll: ](*,)