Bigpower

Hi guys, excuse my ignorance but I am just checking that what I think is a nearly fooked clutch is actually the case.

The clutch isn't slipping yet but the biting point on the pedal is now right at the top of the pedal travel. I assume this means that the clutch will soon need replacing.

1. Am I right in my assumption?
2. Does anyone have a cheap clutch for sale if it does need replacing?
3. If I drive it on the track at Snett in February, is it likely to die and not get me home?

I reaaly need this sorted before the track day as I have just managed to persuade Sarah to come with me and have a go and I don't want the clutch to die whilst she's out on track.

Cheers

Nik

is the clutch pedal adjustable at all? there might be a threaded rod in the footwell if you scramble upside down and have a fiddle to lower the biting point.

you are correct in thinking that the higher the bite point, the more worn the clutch is. as long as you dont launch the car, or ride the clutch whilst on the trackday there should be no trouble (as long as its not really on its last legs!). i presume you are going to run lower boost on track, so the engine is not under as much strain and the resultant torque output will be lower.

I am not sure if there is any adjustment. I will have to do my contortionist impression and have a look.

I will be turning the boost controller of when on the track especially when sarah is out in it. Not that she couldn't handle it but she has never done a trackday before and I don't want the rear end to kick out and put her off doing it again.

No you cannot adjust the clutch - Nik, is your clutch a twin per chance. When mine failed it went from being normal - I did a bad launch on a QTR - felt it go - from that point forward the bite was almost immediate - aswell as very hard to select 1st or Reverse.

Cause was one of my plates were warped. I would take it easy with the clutch till it's changed, it's on it's last legs.

Matter of interest - have you checked the levels in the clutch reservoir? - could be low - remember it's got a slave and master cylinder, the reservoir is next to the brake reservoir.

No Ben as far as I am aware it is the stock clutch. The fluid is high, that was the first thing I checked

Looks like I might have to fork out for a new clutch before 28th Feb then

My old Nismo paddle clutch had a really high biting point, and I do mean really high, and felt like it was going. It took 15 months of abuse to kill it including 6 trackdays, 4 quarter mile days, a drift day and a trip to the Nurburgring on top of general road driving. You'll soon know when it's fooked, the easiest way I found of making sure was to get the car rolling up to about 50mph select fourth and floor it. When the boost comes in, you will see a pronounced slipping, normally identified by the revs climbing out of synch with the speed building. At that point, bin it or be confined to a life of poodling around off boost.

Is yours an early or late 32? They early ones used a push type clutch and the ones built 93 or later used a pull type ones like the 33's and 34's.

I havr tried the 4th gear test Stu and it isn't slipping at the moment.

Mine is the early "push" type.

Ahh then sod it - go for it - stu's lasted for ever - additionally when i first got my car, Mark Gilliam told me my clutch wouldn't last very long - it did 18 months before I mashed it on the Qtr.

If you've got recovery in the event of failure then take the risk.

Matter of interest I replaced my OS Giken Twin with an Exedy Organic single for

I have AA so I think I might just see how it goes.