Grounding kit
I don't think it has actually, would you mind enlightening us?
http://www.auto-genie.co.uk
07733 527430
stuart@auto-genie.co.uk
Valeting, detailing and undersealing
07733 527430
stuart@auto-genie.co.uk
Valeting, detailing and undersealing
This is a very good point and relevant to anyone doing a rear battery install on any car. It is well worth the extraNikWilson wrote:Had this on my GTR - good value and look good.
On the R33 and R34 GTR, it would be advisable to buy the extra lead from the battery to the front of the car, as the battery is located in the boot on these cars.
Nik
I have got this all written down in a much more coherrent form than these ramblings, if they're disjointed or dont make sense then they may have been written in between the boss coming in to ask me work related questions... 
If you check continuity across pretty much any part of the car, you'll find that everything is nicely grounded and that the bleeper bleeps happily and all is right in the world.
Once you turn the key, the whole issue changes as you've suddenly got voltage spikes of hundreds of volts coming from your starter motor, a noisy alternator, coils, injectors as well as all the accessories (heater fan, electric windows, air con).
These all work very nicely thank-you because they all consume lots of amps and have no trouble grounding by shear brute force.
But ECUs use lots of discrete voltages to monitor the engine's vital signs, and relatively low currents to drive things like the injectors, all of which these must share the same grounding paths as the noise generators, which can result in the voltages backing up into the sensor's circuitry.
Add to the fact that corrosion and oil contamination lessen the integrity of the grounding straps and you can begin to see how the ECU might start to get effected by noise and possibly even raised voltage on its ground path.
Heres a worse case scenario to illustrate a point: We've all seen a bad earth on an indicator lighting up the brake light as it tries to find a way to ground, imagine the effect on an ECU if instead of grounding through an earth strap it went through a temperature sensor, at best it would cause the fueling to go to pot, at worst it will destroy all the components between the sensor and its ground path.
Generally what tends to happen is that voltage spikes effect sensors, and bad earths mean that voltages go to ground across different parts of the block and so on.
What a grounding kit does is to give the low voltage stuff a fighting chance to make its path to ground and complete the circuit. This is why these kits can solve starting issues (starter noise), rough running (sensors reading correctly), and appear to produce more power (less trigger errors, better fuel control due to correct sensor readings) If you think that a MAF's range is ~1v to 5v a 0.5v ripple would cause a massive fuel error.
I hope that makes sense
If you check continuity across pretty much any part of the car, you'll find that everything is nicely grounded and that the bleeper bleeps happily and all is right in the world.
Once you turn the key, the whole issue changes as you've suddenly got voltage spikes of hundreds of volts coming from your starter motor, a noisy alternator, coils, injectors as well as all the accessories (heater fan, electric windows, air con).
These all work very nicely thank-you because they all consume lots of amps and have no trouble grounding by shear brute force.
But ECUs use lots of discrete voltages to monitor the engine's vital signs, and relatively low currents to drive things like the injectors, all of which these must share the same grounding paths as the noise generators, which can result in the voltages backing up into the sensor's circuitry.
Add to the fact that corrosion and oil contamination lessen the integrity of the grounding straps and you can begin to see how the ECU might start to get effected by noise and possibly even raised voltage on its ground path.
Heres a worse case scenario to illustrate a point: We've all seen a bad earth on an indicator lighting up the brake light as it tries to find a way to ground, imagine the effect on an ECU if instead of grounding through an earth strap it went through a temperature sensor, at best it would cause the fueling to go to pot, at worst it will destroy all the components between the sensor and its ground path.
Generally what tends to happen is that voltage spikes effect sensors, and bad earths mean that voltages go to ground across different parts of the block and so on.
What a grounding kit does is to give the low voltage stuff a fighting chance to make its path to ground and complete the circuit. This is why these kits can solve starting issues (starter noise), rough running (sensors reading correctly), and appear to produce more power (less trigger errors, better fuel control due to correct sensor readings) If you think that a MAF's range is ~1v to 5v a 0.5v ripple would cause a massive fuel error.
I hope that makes sense
Thanks for the effort Bob. Nice touch and written in a very concise and informative manner :thumb: You win a star!!
http://www.auto-genie.co.uk
07733 527430
stuart@auto-genie.co.uk
Valeting, detailing and undersealing
07733 527430
stuart@auto-genie.co.uk
Valeting, detailing and undersealing
It was a shame the ECU installation document I'd written on the subject wasn't available as I'd have had to take up less work time.
Its written a load better in the first section of my guide here: http://www.vems.hu/wiki/index.php?page= ... FUserGuide
With pictures too!
Its written a load better in the first section of my guide here: http://www.vems.hu/wiki/index.php?page= ... FUserGuide
With pictures too!
This is a very good point and relevant to anyone doing a rear battery install on any car. It is well worth the extrabenh wrote:NikWilson wrote:Had this on my GTR - good value and look good.
On the R33 and R34 GTR, it would be advisable to buy the extra lead from the battery to the front of the car, as the battery is located in the boot on these cars.
Nik