stuartstaples wrote:You just need to paint the whole car satin black now and you'll be laughing :thumb:
are you offering to do it then mate :-D
the cannards and the lower splitter will be painted mettalic ink black
TNT Racing XR4x4 - Time Attack 2009
What a way to round of our first year with the janspeed. The engine is definately dying. In spite of it not wanting to keep it's oil inside it actually feels smoother and stronger than ever. As long as we don't turn right :-D
The engine should be coming out in the next month when we half expect it to fall to bits.
It served us well
Track days x9
Nurburgring x1
Santa pod x2
Fast Ford magazine x2
Performance Ford x2
Practical performance car - Cover shot
Possibly one more mag 8)
Head gaskets x3
Warped head x1
Blown turbo x1
Front spilter x1
Spark plugs x18
Plug leads x8
Drive shaft x1
Clutch x1
But surprisingly the gearbox has held up well. If you ever get a chance at a pax lap with Alan you'll know why I say surprisingly. Brutal is not the word. When he goes for third gear it's like a heavy weight boxer going for the knock out. :x Sorry Al just joking...but i'm sure i heard the car wimper the other day when you got in it :-D
Roll on 2008.
The engine should be coming out in the next month when we half expect it to fall to bits.
It served us well
Track days x9
Nurburgring x1
Santa pod x2
Fast Ford magazine x2
Performance Ford x2
Practical performance car - Cover shot
Possibly one more mag 8)
Head gaskets x3
Warped head x1
Blown turbo x1
Front spilter x1
Spark plugs x18
Plug leads x8
Drive shaft x1
Clutch x1
But surprisingly the gearbox has held up well. If you ever get a chance at a pax lap with Alan you'll know why I say surprisingly. Brutal is not the word. When he goes for third gear it's like a heavy weight boxer going for the knock out. :x Sorry Al just joking...but i'm sure i heard the car wimper the other day when you got in it :-D
Roll on 2008.
2008 Prepartion
After our last track day at donny where we were black flagged for laying a smoke screen we have taken a month's break from the car. In our usual arse about face method of doing things we have booked onto a track day at Bedford on Feb. 23rd. 
....Think we had better get the engine sorted 
After much discussion, some arguements and even a minor falling out, we are 95% certain what the problem is. However this time we are taking no chances and are going to go further than we think we need to.
When we originally built the engine, we are certain that we did not fit a gasket on the cam cover sandwich plate, nor did we use proper sump sealing gasket paste.
This is what Alan has drawn up as a guide line of what he will be doing.
Engine rebuild
Strip down
1.drain oil and water
2.remove radiator, intercooler and pipes
3.disconnect callipers, whole suspension and drive shafts
4.disconnect front propshaft and remove front diff
5.assess weather lower cross member has to be lowered
6.remove sump from engine
7.remove power steering pump, alternator and bracket
8.Remove camshaft casing and sandwich plate.
Rebuild
1.to refit the camshaft cover (fit new thermostate) clean both block and camshaft faces and 2 new gaskets with sealing compound on both sides with sandwich plate in the middle and fit camshaft cover, tighten to torque settings of timing cover (tc) to cylinder block 13-16 TC to intermediate plate 10-13 and intermediate plate to cylinder block 13-16 all settings in lbf ft
2.refitting of the sump, fit 2 new half moon rubber gaskets at each end of the sump, apply a even layer of sealing compound onto sump and fit back onto the engine putting all bolts at first on finger tight then torque up to specific settings of 4-8 lbf ft
3.fitting front diff , fit new inner and outer O rings and apply a little oil to the outer O ring to enable fitting, slide diff back onto sump and bolt back up to torque settings of ? refit front propshaft to gearbox and front diff to torque settings of 42-49 lbt ft.
4.front suspension, replace old front shocks with new ones and fit springs also, refit all suspension components, discs and callipers and reassemble.Top mounts (WARNING, when car has been lowered retighten top suspension mount nuts X2)
5.refit alternater, power steering pump, bracket and belts.
6.refit radiater, intercooler and pipes
7.change oil filter for a new one and refill oil level
8.reseal turbo join to ensure no leaks, metal wire and exhaust paste
9.wrap manifold, crossover pipe and turbo manifold in manifold heat wrap.
10.refill water system and bleed to ensure no air leaks.Antifreeze / coolant
11.drop car to ground and recheck suspension top mount nuts and re tighten.
1.Drive shaft gaitor / drive shaft.
2 Anti roll bar poly bushes.
To cheer ourselves up and give ourselves a bit to do, we have bought something which we have been looking into doing for sometime.
....Think we had better get the engine sorted 
After much discussion, some arguements and even a minor falling out, we are 95% certain what the problem is. However this time we are taking no chances and are going to go further than we think we need to.
When we originally built the engine, we are certain that we did not fit a gasket on the cam cover sandwich plate, nor did we use proper sump sealing gasket paste.
This is what Alan has drawn up as a guide line of what he will be doing.
Engine rebuild
Strip down
1.drain oil and water
2.remove radiator, intercooler and pipes
3.disconnect callipers, whole suspension and drive shafts
4.disconnect front propshaft and remove front diff
5.assess weather lower cross member has to be lowered
6.remove sump from engine
7.remove power steering pump, alternator and bracket
8.Remove camshaft casing and sandwich plate.
Rebuild
1.to refit the camshaft cover (fit new thermostate) clean both block and camshaft faces and 2 new gaskets with sealing compound on both sides with sandwich plate in the middle and fit camshaft cover, tighten to torque settings of timing cover (tc) to cylinder block 13-16 TC to intermediate plate 10-13 and intermediate plate to cylinder block 13-16 all settings in lbf ft
2.refitting of the sump, fit 2 new half moon rubber gaskets at each end of the sump, apply a even layer of sealing compound onto sump and fit back onto the engine putting all bolts at first on finger tight then torque up to specific settings of 4-8 lbf ft
3.fitting front diff , fit new inner and outer O rings and apply a little oil to the outer O ring to enable fitting, slide diff back onto sump and bolt back up to torque settings of ? refit front propshaft to gearbox and front diff to torque settings of 42-49 lbt ft.
4.front suspension, replace old front shocks with new ones and fit springs also, refit all suspension components, discs and callipers and reassemble.Top mounts (WARNING, when car has been lowered retighten top suspension mount nuts X2)
5.refit alternater, power steering pump, bracket and belts.
6.refit radiater, intercooler and pipes
7.change oil filter for a new one and refill oil level
8.reseal turbo join to ensure no leaks, metal wire and exhaust paste
9.wrap manifold, crossover pipe and turbo manifold in manifold heat wrap.
10.refill water system and bleed to ensure no air leaks.Antifreeze / coolant
11.drop car to ground and recheck suspension top mount nuts and re tighten.
1.Drive shaft gaitor / drive shaft.
2 Anti roll bar poly bushes.
To cheer ourselves up and give ourselves a bit to do, we have bought something which we have been looking into doing for sometime.
Christmas pressie for the car
Picked up a couple of things for the car yesterday. An early start and a trip ahead of us, decent driving weather and getting bits for the car. This is what the weekend is about 
We left at 7 in the morning for our trip down to Wiltshire in Al's GT. With no radio (He has lost the facia in his flat :roll: ) Basically we spent most of the drive talking about the track car and the year in general. We were having such a laugh that we completrly missed our junction :roll:
The intention was to collect some braided brake hoses and the new bonnet...However we managed to come back also with a cossie bonnet and 2 headlights and a roof spoiler. We had taken down some roofracks with which to attached the bonnet to. Imagine our surprise when we managed to get everything inside the car
We left at 7 in the morning for our trip down to Wiltshire in Al's GT. With no radio (He has lost the facia in his flat :roll: ) Basically we spent most of the drive talking about the track car and the year in general. We were having such a laugh that we completrly missed our junction :roll: The intention was to collect some braided brake hoses and the new bonnet...However we managed to come back also with a cossie bonnet and 2 headlights and a roof spoiler. We had taken down some roofracks with which to attached the bonnet to. Imagine our surprise when we managed to get everything inside the car
Having just read the topic on the wrx gearbox made me think of our simular problem. The gearbox on the 2.8 is a type 9, which is said not to able to cope with much more than 300 lbs/ft. The last time we had the car dyno'd back in august it was producing 293 lbs/ft. We believe that the gearbox we have is already uprated but have no way of knowing.
This leaves us with a decission to make.
Do we
a) Buy a 2nd hand gearbox to keep as a spare..
This leaves us with a decission to make.
Do we
a) Buy a 2nd hand gearbox to keep as a spare..
It depends on what power plans are for the future, if you intend on taking it a fair bit further then I would get the uprated kit but forget about the tall top speed as I am unaware of anywhere you would get to try that out. Can you change the final drive ratio to shorten it and bring the gearing closer together?