Are you getting a spark on every cylinder? If noy then try plugs or coil packs.
Are you getting fuel up? If not then perhaps the fuel pump has died - can you hear it prime when you switch the ignition on?
Beyond that, I would recomend a trip to APT - Its what I do with anything more complicated :thumb:
PS13 Silvia drift car
- Datsun-Des
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- Location: King's Lynn, Norfolk
- Bladerider
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Its late and I have been trying to think clearly on this and the only things I can think (dopily) about are:
Coil pack amp
Earth connection for this amp (possibly little wire ala Skyline)
Immobiliser possibly shaken lose and immobilising
Less likely,
CAS - just cause the PFC can see it dont mean its trying to fire at the right time
AFM wiring/afm setting on pfc if its a different one and possibly out of zone if the PFC has reset
Is there definately no spark and fuel IS getting there, as that would be one of my major thoughts - fuel pump, mine went the other day whilst on the rollers, which was uprated already.
Sorry Im not any more help,
j.
OH - might be worth checking the loom in the front wheel arches as these get murdered on drift cars and could maybe shorting out something,
J.
Coil pack amp
Earth connection for this amp (possibly little wire ala Skyline)
Immobiliser possibly shaken lose and immobilising
Less likely,
CAS - just cause the PFC can see it dont mean its trying to fire at the right time
AFM wiring/afm setting on pfc if its a different one and possibly out of zone if the PFC has reset
Is there definately no spark and fuel IS getting there, as that would be one of my major thoughts - fuel pump, mine went the other day whilst on the rollers, which was uprated already.
Sorry Im not any more help,
j.
OH - might be worth checking the loom in the front wheel arches as these get murdered on drift cars and could maybe shorting out something,
J.
I have issues !!!
....I used to be average, now I reminisce !!!



Cheers for the help guys.
I have stolen an R32 master relay off Stu to try "just in case", and will check out the harness under the front arch and Coil pack amp earth tomorow. (once i have found it) Any ideas how I check the coil amp funtion without just replacing it? (I have no spare to swap out).
There is plenty of fuel getting in and I can hear the pump so it isnt that. It is definately a spark failure.
After spending a few hours today helping Stu strip the wiring out of his replacement R32 shell I am even more scared by the amount of wiring that goes into these nissans, and therefore the amount there is to go wrong!
I have stolen an R32 master relay off Stu to try "just in case", and will check out the harness under the front arch and Coil pack amp earth tomorow. (once i have found it) Any ideas how I check the coil amp funtion without just replacing it? (I have no spare to swap out).
There is plenty of fuel getting in and I can hear the pump so it isnt that. It is definately a spark failure.
After spending a few hours today helping Stu strip the wiring out of his replacement R32 shell I am even more scared by the amount of wiring that goes into these nissans, and therefore the amount there is to go wrong!
It works !!!
Well tonight after taking advice form anyone offering, I spent some more time on the car. And it works!
The weird thing is, I didn't do anything to fix it ?!? at least not that i can work out.
The process for tonight was:
- I took a multimeter to the first coil to check that one wire had 12v and there was a resistance on one of the others for earth. That was fine.
- I then looked for the coil amp pack as suggested by bladerunner (even more confusing me because i had always thought that the amp was in the coil on coil on plug systems but that just shows my limits with electrics). Couldn't find anything i suspected anyway, gave up for now to try again later.
- So - lets check if the coil is getting a signal. I put the multimeter in the switched earth on a disconnected coil plug and turn key watching the multimeter as the engine cranked. The damn engine immediately started on 3 cylinders!!! turned off the engine, plugged in the last coil and it fired again on all 4. This is strange. And now I don't trust it not to break down again because I don't think I fixed anything.
To give me some confidence in the car I started checking the engine bay harness for frays or shorts. What I found was a variety of hacks and several plugs with nothing obvious to plug into.



and a homemade plate beside the turbo, bolted to the suspension turret hiding anther black box:


coil amp pack? no idea what it is to be honest.
It also had a sharp edge near the harness so i checked everything, re-wrapped the harness just in case and bent over the sharp edge.

Well I am still not sure what happened, and I am nervous to drive it again for an MOT because I don't know what the problem was and if it is now fixed. I don't want to be stranded again. I also now have another job I need to do of tidying up the harness and fixing some hacks. I did run the engine for 5 minutes to warm everything thing up and it was all fine, but I didn't drive it. Tomorrow I will book another MOT and keep praying that the car makes it this time.
Thank you Maff and Bladerunner in particular for the help. If there is a chance, then I have a couple of Kronenbourgs for you both.
As always, I am after some more help now - Does anyone know where I can download an electrical manual or wiring diagram?
The weird thing is, I didn't do anything to fix it ?!? at least not that i can work out.
The process for tonight was:
- I took a multimeter to the first coil to check that one wire had 12v and there was a resistance on one of the others for earth. That was fine.
- I then looked for the coil amp pack as suggested by bladerunner (even more confusing me because i had always thought that the amp was in the coil on coil on plug systems but that just shows my limits with electrics). Couldn't find anything i suspected anyway, gave up for now to try again later.
- So - lets check if the coil is getting a signal. I put the multimeter in the switched earth on a disconnected coil plug and turn key watching the multimeter as the engine cranked. The damn engine immediately started on 3 cylinders!!! turned off the engine, plugged in the last coil and it fired again on all 4. This is strange. And now I don't trust it not to break down again because I don't think I fixed anything.
To give me some confidence in the car I started checking the engine bay harness for frays or shorts. What I found was a variety of hacks and several plugs with nothing obvious to plug into.



and a homemade plate beside the turbo, bolted to the suspension turret hiding anther black box:


coil amp pack? no idea what it is to be honest.
It also had a sharp edge near the harness so i checked everything, re-wrapped the harness just in case and bent over the sharp edge.

Well I am still not sure what happened, and I am nervous to drive it again for an MOT because I don't know what the problem was and if it is now fixed. I don't want to be stranded again. I also now have another job I need to do of tidying up the harness and fixing some hacks. I did run the engine for 5 minutes to warm everything thing up and it was all fine, but I didn't drive it. Tomorrow I will book another MOT and keep praying that the car makes it this time.
Thank you Maff and Bladerunner in particular for the help. If there is a chance, then I have a couple of Kronenbourgs for you both.
As always, I am after some more help now - Does anyone know where I can download an electrical manual or wiring diagram?
Rob.........the username is Bladerider (as in the bike, which is in itself quite funny because if James ever sat on one, it would probably disappear straight up his arse
)
Chuffed you have had a result with the car, even if it is a slightly baffling one. (A victory is still a victory, even if it is hollow)
I think the shielded box of tricks is the ignition amplifier as you mentioned, it's probably hidden behind there to try keep it away from the heat. I know from first hand experience they are very susceptible to breaking down when the car gets hot and then behaving ok when cold. Over time this gets worse until the car runs on less cylinders than it should or won't start altogether.
Here is a link to an S13 manual
http://www.fctuning.com/
Click on manuals and then there are two. One for an S13 (probably CA18) and then one for an S13 180sx which I'm guessing is an SR20
It should be OK, but computer is on the go slow so I cannot load the page.

Chuffed you have had a result with the car, even if it is a slightly baffling one. (A victory is still a victory, even if it is hollow)
I think the shielded box of tricks is the ignition amplifier as you mentioned, it's probably hidden behind there to try keep it away from the heat. I know from first hand experience they are very susceptible to breaking down when the car gets hot and then behaving ok when cold. Over time this gets worse until the car runs on less cylinders than it should or won't start altogether.
Here is a link to an S13 manual
http://www.fctuning.com/
Click on manuals and then there are two. One for an S13 (probably CA18) and then one for an S13 180sx which I'm guessing is an SR20
It should be OK, but computer is on the go slow so I cannot load the page.
ARGHH
sorry, Bladerider. and thank you for the manuals Stu.
Today I booked in another MOT for tomorrow morning, and to temp fate before tidying up the car I tried to start it. An initial chug but then nothing! again not firing at all. ARGHH
I tried repeating what I did last night and no luck. I took out all the plugs - lots of fuel. Ignoring the lack of spark ( it is difficult to check on your own anyway so i may have been mistaken - or at least I praying I was mistaken) maybe it just overfuels and floods? (self induced disillusions probably but what else do i have?) So i wound out some fuel on the cold start map, cleaned of the plugs, blew a hot air gun down the plug holes to try and evaporate the fuel and once it was all back i tried again. STILL DEAD :x . I am really getting fed up with this by now.
Last try - chuck some Bradex easy start into the intake and try again. NOTHING :x :x
No it is almost half nine and it is damn cold outside. I am so lost I just have to give up. Can anyone recommend an auto electircian for this type of heavily modified car that comes to you? Or have a working a coil amp/ power transistor I can try swapping to rule that out of the variables?
Stupid damn car.
and i don't think Wymondham Motor Group will even take an MOT booking from me again.
Today I booked in another MOT for tomorrow morning, and to temp fate before tidying up the car I tried to start it. An initial chug but then nothing! again not firing at all. ARGHH
I tried repeating what I did last night and no luck. I took out all the plugs - lots of fuel. Ignoring the lack of spark ( it is difficult to check on your own anyway so i may have been mistaken - or at least I praying I was mistaken) maybe it just overfuels and floods? (self induced disillusions probably but what else do i have?) So i wound out some fuel on the cold start map, cleaned of the plugs, blew a hot air gun down the plug holes to try and evaporate the fuel and once it was all back i tried again. STILL DEAD :x . I am really getting fed up with this by now.
Last try - chuck some Bradex easy start into the intake and try again. NOTHING :x :x
No it is almost half nine and it is damn cold outside. I am so lost I just have to give up. Can anyone recommend an auto electircian for this type of heavily modified car that comes to you? Or have a working a coil amp/ power transistor I can try swapping to rule that out of the variables?
Thanks mate. I think it might come to that, but I hate not being able to fix stuff myself. Let me know when you are free and I will give you a call tomorrow to arrange it.stuartstaples wrote:How about you hire the transit again and I tow it to Gary's for him to sort it out? Not knocking your mechanical nouse, but he knows these SR20's very well and could save you an awful lot of grief mate. Let me know.
Thanks again for the offer.