Duncan, believe me there will be a fair amount of obsession about those nuts for a few months thats for sure!!
Has anyone any clues as to why im struggling to get the power delivery going from 2nd to 3rd coming out of russells chicane? 3rd 4th and 5th are fine all the way through the revs but it just seems to have a major stalling point about 5.5k in 2nd and then surges on no matter how i tried to apply the power, unless i was being very gentle in putting my foot down, hence the poor exit speed!
Snetterton - great day but could of been oh so worse!!!
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James Breadvan
- Posts: 535
- Joined: Tue Apr 10, 2007 5:17 pm
- Location: Norwich
Was you fuel tank full?boucherie wrote: Has anyone any clues as to why im struggling to get the power delivery going from 2nd to 3rd coming out of russells chicane? 3rd 4th and 5th are fine all the way through the revs but it just seems to have a major stalling point about 5.5k in 2nd and then surges on no matter how i tried to apply the power, unless i was being very gentle in putting my foot down, hence the poor exit speed!
360 Gamertag TheTrash
do it in 3rd?boucherie wrote:Duncan, believe me there will be a fair amount of obsession about those nuts for a few months thats for sure!!
Has anyone any clues as to why im struggling to get the power delivery going from 2nd to 3rd coming out of russells chicane? 3rd 4th and 5th are fine all the way through the revs but it just seems to have a major stalling point about 5.5k in 2nd and then surges on no matter how i tried to apply the power, unless i was being very gentle in putting my foot down, hence the poor exit speed!
Russells is one of those chicanes that is difficult to get a good exit from, unless you're prepared to be very aggressive over the kerbs. Doing that on the entry to the first part and then into and over the second part that leads onto the straight will add a fair chunk of speed, as long as your suspension doesn't melt in the process 
If you hit them fast enough you do kind of take off anyway from experience!!
If you hit them fast enough you do kind of take off anyway from experience!!
Tk - i think you could be right, it does sound like fuel surge to me, weirdly though it done it on nearly a full tank last year and 1/2 tank this year!! Whats the known cure for this little problem then aside from trying to get the fuel pump a bit lower into the tank as the walbro's are alot smaller than the stock ones?
After getting my bonus this month i think its time to treat the car to some new rear bearings, new rear discs and then send it off to APT for a tune up then see what happens
After getting my bonus this month i think its time to treat the car to some new rear bearings, new rear discs and then send it off to APT for a tune up then see what happens
.Whats the known cure for this little problem then aside from trying to get the fuel pump a bit lower into the tank as the walbro's are alot smaller than the stock ones
Fit a swirl pot and a second pump. Also worth fitting a carflap or baffled sump too to stop oil surge if your going to use it regularly, plus an upreated oil cooler if you havent got one already.
Hi Ian
Your wheelnut problem was probably caused by the wheel not seating properly to the hub when it was re-fitted. Alloy wheels are often a tight fit to the centre of the hub and as they have no flex they can clamp on without getting a solid face-to-face fit. The torque wrench may be working perfectly but if there is any small gap between the faces, the weight transfer of the car even when driving normally will be enough to move the wheel relative to the hub which gives the nuts the opportunity to loosen.
To prevent this happening you can re-torque after a few miles as suggested above but it's also worth doing all the nuts twice when fitting the wheel. This works pretty well as the first tightening seats the wheel to the hub and the second actually tensions the nuts to the correct torque. If you do both with the wrench set correctly you will know how necessary it was as some of the nuts will click the wrench immeadiately on the second go but others will tighten further even though you have already tightened them to that torque once already. Usually its the first couple that you do that need the extra tightening as they are the ones that are starting to pull the wheel to the hub, the last couple normally need less on the second go as the wheel is fairly well seated by then.
HTH :-D
Steve H
Your wheelnut problem was probably caused by the wheel not seating properly to the hub when it was re-fitted. Alloy wheels are often a tight fit to the centre of the hub and as they have no flex they can clamp on without getting a solid face-to-face fit. The torque wrench may be working perfectly but if there is any small gap between the faces, the weight transfer of the car even when driving normally will be enough to move the wheel relative to the hub which gives the nuts the opportunity to loosen.
To prevent this happening you can re-torque after a few miles as suggested above but it's also worth doing all the nuts twice when fitting the wheel. This works pretty well as the first tightening seats the wheel to the hub and the second actually tensions the nuts to the correct torque. If you do both with the wrench set correctly you will know how necessary it was as some of the nuts will click the wrench immeadiately on the second go but others will tighten further even though you have already tightened them to that torque once already. Usually its the first couple that you do that need the extra tightening as they are the ones that are starting to pull the wheel to the hub, the last couple normally need less on the second go as the wheel is fairly well seated by then.
HTH :-D
Steve H